Originally Posted by CooperMan
I'd be very wary of deleting the conical bump stop (not sure about Bilsteins) but some others bust the internal workings if they bottom out on full compression

AVO's certainly do swear

I do get what you're saying, however in theory with Roger's spring assisters set correctly the damper should never fully close, and on a suspension system thats clearly so desperately short of travel, the 20mm or so of additional compression travel released by removing the damper bump stops would be very welcome indeed. The recommendation to delete the bump stops actually came from Rog himself, but with the caveat that the distance between the elastomer cone and leaf spring must be set very carefully.

Originally Posted by sewin
Montegue,

I have Spax adjustable shocks as supplied by SSL on the rear of my car and Rog's assisters. Went for the SSL option as I knew they would have the correct open/closed length, and I find that to be as good as I can get with the standard set up.

I also bought my Bilstens from Dan White of SSL, so I'd also assumed he would supply the correct open and closed lengths, however as we can see I'm running on my bump stops.

[Linked Image]

In Dan's defence I am running 20mm lowering blocks and BCC anti-tramp rear springs, the Bilsteins actually have a very large operating range from full compression to full droop, the issue to me seems to be the distance between my bottom damper fittings mounted to the brake drum back plate/axle, and my 7/16" top damper mounting tubes welded to the hoop.

I believe the distance between the damper mounting points was reduced by 20mm when I fitted the 20mm lowering blocks, it also looks likely the BCC springs may have played their part too by stealing another 5 - 10mm? The result of losing up to 30mm of travel is I now only have 30mm left to work with, but that's all taken up with the big 30mm Bilstein bump stop.

The truth is I've been aware of all this for a long time now, the original plan was to raise my top damper mounting tubes by 30 - 40mm to win back the lost travel, but before getting around to doing this I broke the hoop off their brackets. The original Morgan welds were poor and the whole thing is much stronger now, but the underlying issue remains. I had asked my fabricator to raise the hoop when he welded it back in place, and while he did attempt to do so I really don’t think he could have achieved much (if anything) by way of a hoop lift.

This brings me full circle to my original plan of raising my top damper mounting tubes by 30 - 40mm to win back the lost travel, I then plan to fit Roger's spring assisters, adjust them as instructed, and ultimately delete the damper bump stops to finish off the job. Rog is currently studying some Monty measurements I've sent him, and is supporting me with his engineering expertise and Trad Morgan rear suspension knowledge.

Watch this space tongue2