Originally Posted by Lordofthewings
Good suggestions, thanks. In past years I have used fibreglass mat/resin to repair things, but the ABS plastic (I believe) that the tool tray is moulded from seems to be adhesive-resistant (I have even tried a temporary fix/bodge using black duct tape, but despite careful cleaning/de-greasing it pretty much just peels off).

The irony is that the original jack is too tall to get under the front suspension (especially with the A/C pipework in the way), so I use shallow ramps to raise the front of the car when changing wheels etc using a trolley jack (and with axle stands of course). And I have 2-eared spinners, for which I use a "Lionel Wheel-Widget" tool with a breaker bar. And my grease gun is a different shape/size from the original one. So basically the tool tray doesn't meet my requirements, apart from forming a barrier against road grime getting up on the plywood shelf. Still annoying though to have the original one cracked/holed.

As for what the cause of the cracks was, the weight of the jack/mallet/grease gun etc may have depressed the level of the tray in its early life, to the extent that the couple of inches of upward movement of the diff housing when driving meant it had rubbed or bashed against the tray. (I seem to recall reading about that on here and in Dave Wellings' book).

[Linked Image]

Peter, those two bolts through the tubular damper hoop should have a thick rubber block on the other side (not visible in photo) to stop the diff hitting the tool tray, I've seen Mogs with it missing


Jon M