Richard, on the cap size there are two different thread types at 43mm ID One appears to fit but pop's off when you try and get a seal. They are both supplied in the Gunson eesy-bleed kit. The first time I used that kit I picked the wrong one assuming they were both identical and it was a nightmare as it wouldn't seal and that's where the fluid will leak from if it can't seal, and it will just empty out the bleed kit reservoir from there.
I went and bought the correct Ford item and fitted the coupling into that and all worked well afterwards.
I was having a clear out one day and was just about to throw the caps from the eez-bleed out and just on a whim I thought i'd try the other cap and it fitted and tightened perfectly. I Checked the two against each other and they had different thread styles. I used the Gunson kit for years after that and it worked fine but I got sick of using a spare wheel to provide pressure so up graded to a self pressurised system which I can safely store the fluid in either ready for use or if any is left. over I use flare spanners for the bleed nipples, They are like ring spanners with a cutout to allow it to pass over the attached bleed pipe and I find them simple to use. If you buy a set they also are designed for brake lines and flexi hoses.Dave is absolutely right in that once you perfect your system you will never go back to the two man or one-way valve methods of bleeding. You can see and control everything you are doing and it's easy to do a whole system flush as well. You will use about £5 worth of brake fluid on the Mog to achieve that and at a garage it'll be £40 +.
Easy to do clutches as well but use about 10-15 Psi. Some Morgans have concentric slave cylinders and its best to reverse bleed these as pressure bleeding can damage the bellows and that's a gearbox out job.
Reverse bleeding: The syringe that dave shows sucking fluid out ( the scary nurse ) is the type to go for as the couplings are metal and secure. First suck out the dirty fluid from the clutch reservoir, You can't really over empty it, Then with clean fluid in the syringe and the connecting tube primed connect it to the external bleed nipple and holding the syringe and tube vertically allow any trapped air in the bleed line to bleed up and away from nipple. once happy crack open the nipple and slowly push fluid into the clutch system. You will see it start to fill the reservoir, this initial fill will flush the dirty fluid from the slave and associated pipes so suck that out of the reservoir and push more fluid into the system and on the second fill it's usually new clean fluid that appears in the reservoir. when satisfied and with the reservoir at the correct level tighten the bleed nipple and remove the filling syringe. Job done!
I just added this here for anyone reading this who has a concentric clutch slave cylinder and might find this info useful.
