Herrie - a few questions if I can, as this is very interesting... and congratulations on your success!
1. When you say "We found that we nearly not had to calibrate the crown- and pinion wheels with less or extra shims" - do you mean you almost always had to change the shims? or that you found that wasn't the problem?
2. You also mention the bearings problem, which I can quite believe. But I don't understand your solution for belt-driven rear wheels: do you recommend just slackening the belt? I often wondered if a belt tensioner arrangement should be used. Or is your solution the increased level of oil in the bevel box to enable more oil to the bearings when the vehicle is stopped? I would expect (from your explanation) that the bearing change on the BB should be a regular service item.
3. I like the idea of your bevel box alignment rod. I remember asking Phil B about correct lateral positioning when I installed his bevel box mount.
4. I recall Emil / MorganCustom in the USA offered a bevel box oil cooler. I could not recognise your air scoop from the photo but it might be the extension to the bevel box mount to the transverse chassis rail? [My impractical thought (as there is probably no room!) would be to follow the German solution to Fw190 radial engine cooling in WW2: mount a little fan over the belt output to blow air over the bearing!]
5. Also on the recommended header tank for BB oil: is the idea that the BB is full of oil and the header tank is for expansion? Would be good to see where you suggest this is fitted - I would assume mounted against the back bulkhead under the luggage panel?
Many thanks for any reply!
