Andy, what you can do will depend on what you can do yourself.
The two places to start are these:
Underbonnet. Check carefully for chafing wires and hoses. The thermostat and water pump are at the rear, and the stat is hard up against the bulkhead. If you have the original plastic tanked radiator, keep an eye on it and factor in an aluminium replacement at some point.
The alternator is close to the exhaust manifold on the offside, and will benefit from a heat shield, as will the starter motor, and clutch master cylinder. The brake master cylinder should have an insulation shield, but this can be smartened up. Consider any other tweaks to limit heat radiation into things better kept cool, such as the inlet tract.
There is likely to be chafing somewhere on the inside of the bonnets and the cowl & bulkhead. I use leather patches to protect the paint. And also check for chafing around the doors. Some cars are clear. Some chafe badly along the lower edge, and can get down to aluminium. Lubricate the bonnet tapes. Use Vaseline or Beeswax.
Inside, there are steering wheel options and rear mirror options. Outside the stainless after market door mirrors are a big improvement. The seat height can be adjusted. A 2010 will probably have no battens under the runners, but if you need a bit more height, fit battens in the range of 1/4" to no more than 3/4". Above that restricts the gap to the steering wheel.
Stainless covers for the chassis crossmembers ahead of the seasts smarten up the look.
There's a lot more to consider but I would start there.
