Yes, me as well!.... inner axle stand 2-3" outside the welds of the central cross piece (wheel side) then a screw jack or some such adjustable means of showing distance from floor to axle tube as close to the hub assembly as possible, I must say that I actually like the hub for this procedure. Then place a jack under the bottom of the king pin. carefully apply pressure to the jack under the king pin which stresses the crosshead axle tube until it literally allows the axle tube to go light on the outboard axle stand on that side but not lifting the the axle tube off the inboard axle stand. You are now able to fit the new crosshead stay which will hold the crosshead tension correctly for your car. The reason there is no torque level for this procedure of fitting the stay is all variants are different weight wise and it's the crosshead flex level you are setting to that car.
Yes, thanks Sewin for confirming my memories. I have replaced one maybe 10 years or so ago using that procedure.
Mine are still fine but when I inspected them recently, it just reminded me of the gomog procedure, so thought i would look it up again as a reminder. It was then that I realised the original notes had been edited down and to someone who might not have done it before, did not quite include the full detail.