Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Running hot

If you get really stuck, I think ACE are still at Witney.

If you're serious about never being under the bonnet before, open rear catch first. When locking down close rear catch last... Applies both sides

Congratulations on acquiring the best Morgan model from the very best year. The voltage stabiliser will look something like this:



If it's not the earth and the unit itself is duff solid state replacements are easy to source.

It's a more common 'problem' than you might think. Reason is, the standard Ford temperature gauge sender is not right for the Morgan instruments of this age. So a replacement sender could easily be the wrong one.

That means the earlier advice to check the running temperature with a thermometer is totally the right first step. Any good real garage should have one - if they haven't, go elsewhere

At the manageable risk of burning yourself, you could try this. Start car from cold. Feel the top hose, it should be cold, but there is a small 'leak' in the correct thermostat so it will warm a bit. But the hose will suddenly get very hot, when the thermostat opens. Remove hand to avoid burning (as if I needed to say) and leap round to the dash and see what the temperature gauge says. Should indicate roughly 'N' for normal, but if the gauge says anything much above N, then I suspect a gauge/sender problem - not an over hot engine.

Do be aware though, the radiator could be blocked and not working properly, it's not unknown either.

I don't know what the correct sender is, my 4/4 has the wrong one, but I've modified the gauge to read correctly with the Ford part. Seemed easier to me!

thanks to all ! the problem did indeed reside behind the dash where a lead had become detached from the instrument. have spent the weekend exploring the backroads of Oxfordshire with a silly grin ''old fart'' on my face. the gauge now steady on the hot side of normal. I presume that is to be expected given unleaded fuel?. As i said the head has been hardened but I was wondering if I should also use the Redex fuel additive? Was interested in tmg531's assertion that this is the 'best model from the best year' could you perhaps be a little biased or are you just trying to stir up some controversy?

Please to hear all is fixed. TMG531 is almost right; 76 was the vintage otherwise spot on

+1

If you have hardened valve seats fitted to the exhaust ports, no need for any additive. The Redex one was never in the FBHVC list so I'd not have bought it.
See FBHVC Fuel information

Website is not fully up to date as the best one can still be got, see Holden

But you don't need any. Won't help with temperature issues either.