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#101317 16/08/12 06:48 PM
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 552
sawman Offline OP
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 552
On the way home from work on monday I noticed that my dipped beam had failed. So I checked the fuses and the bulbs, waggled the wires a bit and whilst nothing worked decided the light/horn/indicator unit had burnt out again.
So a new one was ordered from rimmers. at the same time I checked my paperwork and realised that the MOT was due.

The car went in today for MOT and they guys were going to swap out the column switch at the same time. When I picked up the car they were still wrestling with the switch, I chuckled as I remembers the last time I changed it and it was a real PIA job, esp with no ramps to lift the car up a sensible working height.

I chatted with them a bit and what was perplexing them was the canceling mechanism, looking at the old one compared to the newly delivered one the lugs that do the canceling are a significantly different profile - in the end they resorted to an angle grinder to modify the lug - it now works beautifully. After all this they asked why it needed changing as the lights worked perfectly before the switchover!!

At least I have a lightly used spare! I think I'll look at relays in the circuit to avoid future burn outs.....

Joined: Nov 2010
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At least I have a lightly used spare! I think I'll look at relays in the circuit to avoid future burn outs..... [/quote]

I use relays to protect expensive or hard to replace switches, especially on older equipment where corrosion or dirt and high resistance could be a factor.


'65 +4 four seater
Joined: Oct 2010
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Originally Posted By sawman
........... and what was perplexing them was the canceling mechanism, looking at the old one compared to the newly delivered one the lugs that do the canceling are a significantly different profile - in the end they resorted to an angle grinder to modify the lug - it now works beautifully.


I have just replaced my indicator switch and had exactly the same problem. I had to remove about 2mm from the top of the rather nasty cast cam that is attached to the steering column shaft. I used a file (not an angle grinder!), and took the opportunity to file and emery it smooth all round. I think it was the roughness of the casting that caused one of the self-cancelling arms to jam and snap off in the first place. Now works a treat.


Fjemog

1993 Plus 8

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