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Joined: Sep 2009
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Talk Morgan Guru
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Hi Terry

do you mean the number of clicks should be altered from time to time to make the damper work better? And after this "running in" period again i can go for what setting i want, or is the change of clicks something which should be done frequently over the full life span of the damper - and if so why?
Thanks


'14 4/4 graphite grey
Joined: Jul 2011
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T
L - Learner Plates On
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T
Joined: Jul 2011
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Thats what I mean, and yes this should be done over the life span of the damper. I know from years back that adjustable dampers if not reset from time to time sort of just don,t proform as well after a year or so, I think they just start to wear out faster in one area if they are set in the same place for too long.It was SOP to change the settings from time to time when i was in the USA, can,t remember the full reason but it was best to do so.

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Talk Morgan Guru
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Thanks, that´s good to know and to follow. So I make my next ride a bit more comfy.


'14 4/4 graphite grey
Joined: Aug 2012
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Phew! Gives me the chance to play with the settings and go back to comfy without feeling that I'm a whimp! Tried 3F:2R yesterday & today, but too hard for me and swmbo So I'm currently trying 2F:2R, but I don't really like the feel of the car that way. So, I guess I'll be back to 2F:1R when I have the time to access the rear shocks... Passenger side is easy, but I need either the wheel off, or the tools shelf out to access the drivers side (because of the exhaust). Nice to exchange views guys smile


Philip.
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On my car I can easily reach the setting wheel of the GAZ dampers at the rear. The dampers are mounted that way the wheel/knob is at the bottom side. I don´t see it but I can reach it without acrobatic exercise when lying next to the rear tyre on both sides.


'14 4/4 graphite grey
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Well Heinz, I've tried to adjust the rears as you suggest. Passenger side fine, but the drivers side... no chance on mine. I just about got my left hand on the adjuster, but then got cramp with my hand and arm wedged between the wheel, floor and exhaust... bl***y painful trying to get my hand out swear so I had to revert to removing the wheel. Car now back at 2F:1R for comfort, and thinking likely to remain there.


Philip.
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On ours, mounted at the factory, the adjusters are towards the centre of the car. A bit of a pain but they were very easy to adjust after removing the tool tray. I found one screw broken the first time I removed the tray and put it down to someone a bit heavy handed at the factory. The second time I removed the tray I found two screws broken so either they use very poor quality screws and/or the impact of the diff on the bottom of the tool tray is breaking them.

I believe the springs used on the 2005 model would be completely different, particularly at the rear where you have 5 leaf springs as against 4 leaf on ours and I think also on Heinz's +4 SS, but it is interesting to follow your findings on the 2005 model with AVOs and a panhard rod.


Peter

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Our Plus 4 goes in to have its suspension problems sorted out next week. The plan is to change the front springs to get the correct ride height and fit 5 leaf springs at the rear. Other work will involve removing some of the excessive length of protruding bolts and raising the height of the low front silencer mount. Hopefully this will stop us grounding out on speed humps and allow me to get the car into my garage.

At the same time, to get the best possible handling, a panhard rod will be fitted and cross head braces at the front. Morgan has kindly agreed that the springs are to be replaced under warranty but naturally I have to pay for the rest. That will be the last of my spending for a while spend

I will try setting the shocks to 3 front and 2 at the rear to start with.

I will report back with impressions of the results after I get the car back. In effect I will finish up with suspension very similar to MonteZooma.


Peter

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Hi Peter, hope the changes work out well for you. I'll definitely be interested to hear you views on the before/after comparisions.

Just another thought, while the front axle work is being done, it may be worth dialing in a bit of negative camber, half a degree or so for road work. If you've got the new adjustable camber plates it shouldn't take long, and the garage will probably have to check the tracking after doing the spring exchange anyway.

MZ smile


Philip.
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Originally Posted By Gambalunga
Our Plus 4 goes in to have its suspension problems sorted out next week. The plan is to change the front springs to get the correct ride height and fit 5 leaf springs at the rear. Other work will involve removing some of the excessive length of protruding bolts and raising the height of the low front silencer mount. Hopefully this will stop us grounding out on speed humps and allow me to get the car into my garage.

At the same time, to get the best possible handling, a panhard rod will be fitted and cross head braces at the front. Morgan has kindly agreed that the springs are to be replaced under warranty but naturally I have to pay for the rest. That will be the last of my spending for a while spend

I will try setting the shocks to 3 front and 2 at the rear to start with.

I will report back with impressions of the results after I get the car back. In effect I will finish up with suspension very similar to MonteZooma.


Peter, just two quick questions. Are there problems with the front springs as well as the rear and what are "cross head braces"?


A Morgan Identified Fastidious Owner...
2011 4/4 Bespoke, 1981 Delorean, Auburn Boat Tail
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