Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Wood protector on Cuprinol

I left school on a Friday and started my years as a painter and decorator on the Monday. That was 1964 apart from 3 years as a landscape gardener been in the paint and wood stuff for 49 year not as a painter and decorator for the last 39 year but regular do my own rented houses etc .
Any of the old lads who taught me would turn over in their grave at the crap thats out today .
Firstly its a very changed market and attitude to how to do a job has changed vastly and what to use is not the same to match this .
Yesterday it was to do the job correctly you had plenty of time and to do it correctly was what you where taught .
Today its how quick can I get it over with its work and sadly vast amounts of the public are lazy .
Swedish oil , Scandinavian oil , Danish oil , are all the same product they allow the wood to absorb the oil ( differant woods differant amounts ) But its only good for a quick fix on virgin wood it has no strong ability to fight off bad weather knocks and bumps . The quick job of todays market .
Cuprinol has changed hands many times and the last I knew it was twinned with Dulux Wood Sheen , when Akzo Nobel took over Dulux .
The problem is that the European goverment claim 10% of the ozone layer is damaged by the fumes that evaporate from paints . So all must one day be water based . That means a more inferior product at a higher price . I have not seen any Cuprinol pushed at me for a good while .
I stripped all the spray paint off the wood under the rear wings sanded it down with 000 steel wool till it was velvet smooth then used the old Dulux Woodsheen ebony it was oil based ( no longer made ) still have a tin in my garage . But you can get the same in Sickens .
The area of wood under the spare wheel was treated the same spray paint removed 000 steel wool then coated with Coovar yacht varnish oil based , Yacht varnish does not contain polyurathane this does not react against salt causing it to crack , split and go white ( hence a ghost like image under the layer of varnish )
Lastly as I wrote prior the body frame is about to be done the same with Sickens filter 7 oil based no one will see it so the colour is not important it will get many coats .These areas are all polished with car wax regular
Remember dampness , salt , rain , stones etc etc are somthing you have to guard against.

Hope this helps you out and gives you some understanding as its not that easy to explain without being there to show .

The wood in my 1993 Plus 8 was also treated with Cuprinol during the factory build: I am not planning to do anything specific to re-treat it.
However, if you are re-building your car with panels off etc, I would coat the timber with a fungicidal wood treatment (which is what Cuprinol is), to prevent any chance of wet or dry rot setting in.
You could have a look at the GoMog site: http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/woodindex.html - you might find it useful.

It surely depends which parts you're talking of. I painted a fence with used engine oil many years ago and it's never needed doing again! Only smelt for a month......
nick

Just wanting to go over the exposed areas, floors etc. Think I might go with a yacht varnish type, but thank you. Yes, I am new. Just bought a 1993 Plus 8 in November. It's only got 16k miles on it, just needs a bit of "tidying up", but it's presentable, and really fun to drive (fast!).

All the wood in my aero has just been treated to liberal amounts of yacht varnish!

Downunder this end of things is not really a worry

The focus is more on protecting the letter, hood and wood against strong sunlight!


Jeff

And not parking close to termite mounds?