|
6 members (MartO, nick w, Craig Jezz, Graham, G4FUJ, MJF, mph),
246
guests, and
85
robots. |
|
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
Forums39
Topics49,848
Posts837,396
Members9,596
| |
Most Online1,063
Jun 14th, 2026
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 53
Just Getting Started
|
Just Getting Started
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 53 |
Neil, if Dave W took two days to drill then you know its going to be a very difficult job. If you have any of the stud left as a slight raised portion then when you start to drill the drill will catch on the raised portion and the drill will wander resulting in a scratch, I doubt masking tape around the area will save you. You could very easily do more damage without hardly trying. You will need to flatten the surface, maybe using the dremel, but take your time and be careful, then use a centre punch to locate the centre of the stud before you drill, the centre punch will locate the drill and stop the drill from wandering, start with a very small drill and make the hole larger if you need to. The stud/screw extractors are a very good tool, they work well. My advice is, unless you are very confident in what you are doing, take the car to the dealer and go and have a coffee while they take the stud out, its going to be like going to the dentist for a filling, don’t even watch, its going to be painful. Good luck.
Jeff
2009 Black & Tan +4
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 22,358 Likes: 353
Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
|
|
Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 22,358 Likes: 353 |
You can fix a repair washer over the stud with double sided tape as protection, providing it has a small centre hole.
Or use a metal screwcap with a small hole drilled in the centre. The edges should hold a wandering low speed drill!
DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 983
Talk Morgan Regular
|
|
Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 983 |
Neil, if Dave W took two days to drill then you know its going to be a very difficult job. If you have any of the stud left as a slight raised portion then when you start to drill the drill will catch on the raised portion and the drill will wander resulting in a scratch, I doubt masking tape around the area will save you. You could very easily do more damage without hardly trying. You will need to flatten the surface, maybe using the dremel, but take your time and be careful, then use a centre punch to locate the centre of the stud before you drill, the centre punch will locate the drill and stop the drill from wandering, start with a very small drill and make the hole larger if you need to. The stud/screw extractors are a very good tool, they work well. My advice is, unless you are very confident in what you are doing, take the car to the dealer and go and have a coffee while they take the stud out, its going to be like going to the dentist for a filling, don’t even watch, its going to be painful. Good luck. My suggestion to use masking tape to protect the paint was predicated on careful use of a Dremel cutting disc to cut a slot in what I had understood to be an exposed 2mm section of protruding stud and protecting the paint from any sparks that may be generated. Clearly, masking tape would provide no protection from a "wandering drill bit"... for that DaveW's suggestions above would clearly be better options.
Philip.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 53
Just Getting Started
|
|
Just Getting Started
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 53 |
Dave W, brilliant suggestion .... I am a fan!
Jeff
2009 Black & Tan +4
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,558 Likes: 5
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
|
|
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,558 Likes: 5 |
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5,013 Likes: 32
Charter Member
|
|
OP
Charter Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5,013 Likes: 32 |
More painful thank that! 
+8 4.8
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5,013 Likes: 32
Charter Member
|
|
OP
Charter Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5,013 Likes: 32 |
I've bought some very fine (0.5mm) drill bits for my Dremel - so I might have a go.... What bit would I need to engage with and unscrew the sheared stub? I assume its tight I'm there from the factory fitting.
+8 4.8
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 7,553 Likes: 88
Talk Morgan Guru
|
|
Talk Morgan Guru
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 7,553 Likes: 88 |
I've bought some very fine (0.5mm) drill bits for my Dremel - so I might have a go.... What bit would I need to engage with and unscrew the sheared stub? I assume its tight I'm there from the factory fitting. Are you sure about this? Sounds like the recipe for lots of additional swearing.  I think I would leave it to BHM to sort it, or alternatively you could P.Ex the car for a new +8? Bud __________ 2003 - 4/4
Bud
4/4 "Stanley"
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5,013 Likes: 32
Charter Member
|
|
OP
Charter Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5,013 Likes: 32 |
You could be right Bud. I'll ask BHM if they can remove studs..... I can't quite see their big hairy mechanics fiddling with such a little thing! I'm not totally sold on the 8, which is why I bought the Roadster. I took an 8 out last year and felt it was too much power for a car I just wanted for country lanes. I have 600bhp monsters for blasting.
+8 4.8
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 22,358 Likes: 353
Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
|
|
Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 22,358 Likes: 353 |
Start very fine. The trick is to get a hole started, then you can go bigger, but protect the paint first.
Don't generate too much heat - nice and easy. The metal is quite soft so once you're in, it will drill well. Bear in mind that the stud may not be in square. Mine was angled down slightly.
Easter is right, a dentist could breeze this job.
DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
|
|
|
|
|
