Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Mulfab radiator? (4/4 focus zetec)

Surprised to hear the fan issues... my car (same spec) seems to be running well but I will fit a Mulfab aluminium in due time as seems that most are replaced by now anyhow (according to the LM62 Register including 2002 4/4's).

Seems that most go in from underneath (ohh err misssus!)

I wonder if the lack of louvres may effect the overall cooling especially with the 4/2/1 manifold. Is the manifold lagged or Zirco coated?

I have just changed my rad - from below. A bit tricky at first but when I found out that I could actually bend the two plates that holds the rad on both sides it became easy. I used two pieces of fine rope tied to the 'bumper tubes' to hold the plates aside.

Fitted a mulfab radiator to my roadster three months ago as old rad developed a leak. The temperature has dropped compared to where it used to indicate on the guage around 8 to 12 degrees. On a hot day last week ( 34c ) the temperature stayed stable and even when stood a traffic lights etc.
As for fitting, I did it from below. Jacked up the car on to two stands, removed the grill and front bracket. Then took of the fibre cowling ( no longer needed ) drained coolant, removed all the fixings brackets and pipes and the rad came out easily with the fan and cowling attached. The cowling for the fan is no longer needed ( that is if you have one ) as the fan fits directly onto the back of the mulfab rad.
You get all the parts you need and instructions how to fit them from mulberry this includes new wing tortion bar, new brackets and rubber mounts, any pipe extentions and clips, and all nuts and washers etc.
Fitting was straight forward for me and did not encounter any problems.

Regards Jim

Mulfab have some instructions on their site ........ very helpful of them!

Mulfab

LOL...Jim just beat me to it!

Thanks everyone - very helpful. The Mulfab 4/4 focus rad does look smaller then the current 4/4 / +4 / s1&2 Roadster rad. I will ask them what they recommend and whether a bigger core would be advisable, given I only want to do this once.

Another question - probably covered before - how do you remove the grille?

Keith - no the manifold is bare s/s. I had been considering wrapping it with heat tape all the way from the head to the cat. Another job that will probably have to wait till the winter.

It is held in by the numberplate box bolts. Unscrew your number plate and you will see them. Do take care getting the grille off...it slides down..as you can chip the paint on the cowl.

Aha! Obvious when you think about it. Could fit a mesh at the same time, as long as it wouldn't reduce cooling!

This is the left underbonnet area of my 2005 Zetec black top 4/4 - showing the Librands 4-2-1 s/s manifold. It is very close to the coolant hoses tubing and metal pipes, which are all on the left. I guess this might be the cause of my problem, rather than inefficiency of the radiator itself, as the hoses and tubing will all gain heat from the manifold.

I guess I could

(1) heat wrap the exhaust

(2) use some heat protection on the rubber/silcone hoses and the metal pipes - if so, what?

AND/OR
(3) The original Ford manifold was very restrictive but had a large heat shield over it. I suppose it would also be possible to fabricate an aluminium shield covered in heat shield material, to lie between the manifold and the coolant pipes. There are two (?M6) threaded points on the head that could be used to fix it in place.

Thoughts, anyone?

Thanks Nigel

I've used Zircoflex mat in the past which has been very effective in preventing heat transfer.

Nigel,
I know mine is a Silvertop Zetec but that shouldn't make any difference in this particular respect. I too am running a 4branch manifold Take a look at something like the 'Burton Power' catalogue or website. I am using the good quality chromed steel Ford Cossie heat shield and it works very well for me
I think there might be a shot in the TM photo gallery which shows it
HTH

G