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Joined: Apr 2013
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I'm treading on thin ice here so... Perhaps the metaphor is too simple. The H-D unit is brute force in that it just always cranks out the power and dumps the excess to ground. The C-E unit tries to adjust and that may be where the failures happen. The controlling circuitry is not up to par in dealing with the variables that can happen with something as simple as a motor that goes from zero rpm's to 5K rpm.

The common thread I keep running into is that the C-E unit is too "delicate".

Somebody help with this?


What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
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Originally Posted By Michael H
I'm treading on thin ice here so... Perhaps the metaphor is too simple. The H-D unit is brute force in that it just always cranks out the power and dumps the excess to ground. The C-E unit tries to adjust and that may be where the failures happen. The controlling circuitry is not up to par in dealing with the variables that can happen with something as simple as a motor that goes from zero rpm's to 5K rpm.


Okay, I still can't seem to make what you say fit with what the bikers says in those threads. It just doesn't fit together in my feeble mind.

Quote:
The common thread I keep running into is that the C-E unit is too "delicate".

Hehe, yeah, having to swap the thin constantly as some in this thread, I'd say that too.

Quote:
Somebody help with this?


Yes, I would very much appreciate some explanation I understand and makes me put the puzzle somewhat together.

Martyn's explanation helps a bit, but I have to reread it a couple of times I guess. Having rectifiers, or more having to understand rectifiers is rather new to me, although I do get the need for those things.


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Btw, has anyone considering trying making a bracket like the one in the last picture in the couple of posts up, and then use the rubber thingies between the bracket and frame?

The reason I'm thinking of that is that the rubber will be farther away from the heat. If they still break within less than a hundred miles, I don't think it can be the heat killing them. A thin piece of aluminium bent to shape ought to suffice.


Last edited by AQM; 10/08/13 08:51 PM.
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Originally Posted By AQM
Btw, has anyone considering trying making a bracket like the one in the last picture in the couple of posts up, and then use the rubber thingies between the bracket and frame?

The reason I'm thinking of that is that the rubber will be farther away from the heat. If they still break within less than a hundred miles, I don't think it can be the heat killing them. A thin piece of aluminium bent to shape ought to suffice.



I was worried about this when I did my fix but, in all fairness, the unit never even got warm. It is right out front and catches all the air and I could not even detect that it was 'warm'.

It may be vibration or electrical but, at this point, quien sabe? Just not enough facts to go on. Some die, some don't.


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Oh, I meant the failure of the rubber mounts. But if it doesn't get warm, then my point is void.

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Martyn,

interesting link to the rubber bobbins. I wonder if "powerflex" type bushes would work? Can they stand heat?


2022 Plus Four, 2023 Super Three, Range Rover Vogue SDV8 and Triking T3.
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The bobbins should stand a bit of heat as they are exhaust mounts and exhausts get hot!

As an aside, I was wrong about the A35, it's a Austin 1300 part.


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So if you have a m3w on order would anyone say Morgan has recognized the problem and fixed it. Or would the correct conclusion be to buy the Harley replacement & put it on the minute the 3 wheeler is delivered?


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Thats what i did...bought it from ebay.waiting for my m3w week 41 built date

[url=[URL=http://s1349.photobucket.com/user/Q8morgan/media/image_zps886335ed.jpg.html][/url][/url]

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i have a problem yesterday one of the silent-bloc was broken
i fix it on the chassis without silent bloc

before


after




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