Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Fitting AVO dampers

This morning I made a start on this job. First the rears, so the tool tray had to come out!

Not many photo's for this job because it's a simple enough task. However, the offside lower nyloc is masked by the exhaust so is much harder than the nearside to take off. I used a flexible drive ratchet.The lower nyloc is 9/16".
The AVO dampers have a metal bush inside the red nylon bushes, so a much tighter location on the lower mounts.
Nearside:


Offside:


This job can be done without removing the rear wheels. Interestingly, when the lower nuts are tightened, the upper end of the damper stands off the mounting by around half an inch. It can be pulled into place by tightening the top bolt, but this stresses the damper by pulling the top rearwards. I've fitted a couple of spacer washers each side which amount to about 1/4", so that there's less tension on the damper bushes. The original damper bushes were showing significant ovalling due to this stress.
The arrow shows the position of the spacer washers (they were all I had available!).
Note also that the long mounting bolt is fitted from the rear - nut on the forward end. At some point this changed because my Roadster has the bolt the other way round which means that it can't be removed without cutting a hole in the woodwork. (You can still replace the dampers without removing this bolt).
Finally the nut and bolt are UNF thread. The nut is 5/8"AF nyloc, but the best fit on the bolt head is 18mm metric.
Front to follow when I get time.

Hi Dave,

I’m in the process of installing anti-tramp bars to my 2001 4/4 4 seater, after this I am replacing the old shocks with the AVO’s. I’ve already disconnected the top mounting bolts to help with getting the leaf-spring u-bolts back, so I’m glad the shocks come easily off the lower mounting bar brackets, thought I would have to take the drums off and unbolt the brackets? Have followed GOMOG advice and am replacing the nylock nuts with UNF Staver locking nuts.
Can’t see from your photo's how many leafs are in the springs, the 4/4 4 seater has six so am interested on hearing what your first AVO try it and see settings will be?

David. 2001 4/4 4 seater Avus Blue.

Hi David - I'm starting at 4 clicks and will take a view once the fronts are done. I think there may be 4 leaves.

Interesting re the mounting bolt.

Dave,

I have fitted AVOs to my 2009 Plus 4. The rear dampers fitted in without any stress on the bushings. The mounting positions were properly aligned. Is it possible that the position of the rear axle can be altered by moving the brackets on the leaf springs? Looks to me like your rear axle might be offset 10 mm or so to the rear. (Or maybe twisted a few degrees?)

Front fitting is quick and easy.

My adjustment is 1 click rear and 3 clicks front.

Greetings, Andreas

The axle position is determined by the through bolt and the upper and lower U bolt brackets so is set. It can be altered with a spacer plate, and Mulfab do one for the pre 06 cars where the axle was forward compared to the wing curve, but the spacer plate lowers the rear by a few mm. I did buy this kit for the Roadster, but haven't fitted it as I'm not keen on lowering it, even by a few mm. I might test it out if I replace the leaf springs in the future.
We had a 40 mile run out today, and the rear is better damped than with the originals, but still crashes occasionally - we have bad roads in South Yorkshire. It was a good shakedown for all my recent mods, and everything worked as it should, no knocks from the tool tray which is good!

Right, on with the story..............
First this. If you like black fortified Muscat, this one is super syrupy and super raiseny.



Why am I telling you this?


That's why.

Don't underestimate the top lube bolts. Big diameter and UNF thread on the factory ones mean that they are a pig to restart in the top of the kingpin. Offside took about 15 minutes, but the nearside, which gave me trouble when I tried it just before Shelsley, took over half an hour to restart.


They look so innocent once back in place over the reaction bar.


It's tricky locating the right place to drill the chassis:




Then I fitted the AVO's - very simple job. The old damper has a flat on the shaft so that an open ender can hold it still but the AVO's have an allen head.


I've also fitted a sleeve over the flexible pipe as it touches the reaction bar:


And one shot of the nearside.


Started about 11.00, stopped for lunch and finished about 4.45, so a productive day.

I let Williams fit mine....

They look just the same...but one thing I've notices is there are rub marks from the tyres on full lock....

Peter : On full right hand lock I also get front tyre rub (AVOs fitted). I now know how far to turn before getting the rub. Equivalent run mark on chassis - rub comes from rear of tyre.

Jeremy

Rubbing, if spotted, is a MOT fail. If you can move the stop out a bit, I'd suggest doing so.