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#185273 07/03/14 12:09 PM
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 39
E
EGSmog Offline OP
Just Getting Started
OP Offline
Just Getting Started
E
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 39
Having just replaced the rear springs on my Plus 8 I thought I would add these tips to a topic that has appeared before on this forum.

In the course of my ongoing renovation work rear spring replacement was on the list, primarily due to occasionally bottoming out on bumps. I have often trawled the GOMOG site for info and found the advice on rear springs very good. I followed this up with a call to Mulfab which was very helpful and subsequently bought a pair of the later 4 leaf ones from them.

After removing the seats and spring covers, removal of the old springs with the aid of an air wrench and cutting disc for the U-bolts and rusty nuts was fairly straightforward.

Before fitting the new springs they were painted with heavy oil which was given time to soak in. This was followed by a wrap of Denso tape. The now somewhat sticky springs were then offered up individually to the car with the dowel pin closer to the front than the back. I secured each spring in the car at the front, lined up the axle with the dowel and fitted new heavier gauge U-bolts. The latter weren't tightened fully as movement is necessary to align both sides.

Turning to the rear spring mounting, it is necessary to pull the spring down in order to locate the shackle in the chassis bracket. At this point one needs to take care as the energy in the spring could cause some excitement if it isn't carefully controlled. I initially considered a very heavy G-clamp but the risk of it "flying" off was too great. Jacking from the woodwork isn't an option. This left compressing the spring using a hook of steel over it and a length of 1/2" stud bar threaded through an enlarged hole in the chassis.

Using this method each spring was pulled into line and with a bit of "podging" and levering the bolts were tapped home.
I should add that this job was completed singlehanded and without any scary moments.

I have been advised that the gap between the handbrake Christmas Tree bracket on the axle and the fuel tank may be reduced by this work. An update will follow when the tank goes back.

Hope this may offer some comfort to anyone considering this job now or in the future.

Simon
'79 Plus 8

Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,383
Likes: 14
Talk Morgan Addict
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Talk Morgan Addict
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Great work Simon, its hard work on your own. Would appreciate a picture of your compressing hook? I do the job the other way round, I don't think it matters whatever you find easiest. I put the rears in first, place a block on the front of the spring about 3 inches back from the spring eye and stand on the thing, sometime using a broom (don't laugh) to push on the garage roof to get the last fraction of compression. Of course this means 2 persons and as the Memsahib is well trained (brake bleeding and fire watching when welding, she can be rented out.....cheaply)its not a major problem but any kit allowing this job to be done on my own would save me an ear bashing.



BR Colin
Who used to be a Spanner Juggler
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 14,976
Likes: 2
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Great info thanks Simon. One of those jobs on my list.

Likewise Juggler my wife has become proficient in brake bleeding.


Richard
1976 4/4 4 Seater
Joined: Aug 2013
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Talk Morgan Addict
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,383
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Bless her, mine was my only garage assistant for weekend and evening garage jobs, after 40 years she even knows the difference between an open end and Combo spanner now, she till has work to do when I ask for the 'Thingy' or the 'Whatsit' mind....


BR Colin
Who used to be a Spanner Juggler

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