I recently test drove the factory 3 wheeler demo and found it to be great fun.
My question before I decide to buy is about an awful squawky noise which the sales guy said they all do and claimed it to be caused by some kind of diff setup, it sounds more like a bit of grit can sound when stuck in a disc brake or a dry bearing. Do they all have this problem? (it wasn't the belt slipping) I enjoyed the rawness of the drive but not this noise.
Ask if the "squawky" noise has anything to do with a total failure of the bevel box. It happened to us at highway speed resulting is a total lockup of the rear wheel. No warning. Immediate stop.
This little machine is fun to drive. Safe? That remains to be seen.
Hi Micheal and welcome to TM - Three Wheeler Chapter.
The problem is that they all do all sorts of things, and as Peter said, get reading to find out what. Your noise doesn't actually sound like anything reported yet, but could be the bevel box whine, though this is not normally as high pitched as you have described.
If you buy one, they are fantastic fun, but you must go in with your eyes wide open, and be prepared for some or a lot of fettling, truth be told a little fettling is part of the fun.
Don't hesitate to get back to us on here with any or all of your questions, we're a really friendly and helpful bunch.
I recently test drove the factory 3 wheeler demo and found it to be great fun.
My question before I decide to buy is about an awful squawky noise which the sales guy said they all do and claimed it to be caused by some kind of diff setup, it sounds more like a bit of grit can sound when stuck in a disc brake or a dry bearing. Do they all have this problem? (it wasn't the belt slipping) I enjoyed the rawness of the drive but not this noise.
If it resembles a high pitched chirping noise then perhaps it is the belt rubbing against the rear sprocket. The bevel box gives out a whine as it's attached directly to the frame, or was on the older models. The chirping noise will vary between acceleration, deceleration and coasting, which helps to narrow it down.
It can be horribly distracting as it can feel like something wants to drill through your inner ear real bad!
As far as I can make out this is a common problem with Harley Davidson belt drives. It seems correct tension and rear wheel alignment are very important to eliminate belt noise. Keeping the belt clean is also very important and Harleys have a lower guard to help keep grit and small stones from being trapped in the belt.
Some recommend spray on silicon lubricants that leave a dry but slippery finish, but it seems that does not last very long. Clearly any "wet" oil or wax based lubricant should be avoided as that will carry dirt and grit which would quickly damage the belt and the pulleys.
I'm thinking of buying to, well no i have decided to get the 3. it was a blast to drive and I'm willing to put up with some noise. on the one i drove it had the bevel box whine, but not overly loud also i live 10 miles from the dealer unlike some folks, so if i have problems i can run right over.
As far as I can make out this is a common problem with Harley Davidson belt drives. It seems correct tension and rear wheel alignment are very important to eliminate belt noise. Keeping the belt clean is also very important and Harleys have a lower guard to help keep grit and small stones from being trapped in the belt.
Some recommend spray on silicon lubricants that leave a dry but slippery finish, but it seems that does not last very long. Clearly any "wet" oil or wax based lubricant should be avoided as that will carry dirt and grit which would quickly damage the belt and the pulleys.
Done both, as in, keeping it clean and using silicone. Doesn't matter. It's the aluminum, which is too soft to stand up to the kevlar based belt! It will eat it like butter! I've driven after rains, when the road is immaculate, dirt and dust free, to only have the noises come back after 15 miles!
To reiterate: the Harley-Davidson sprockets, of which there are many, are made of chrome plated steel. The M3W's sprocket is made out of anodized aluminum. Anodized aluminum is damn hard but it has its limits! Anodization is only a few microns think! It's great for non-stick pans and the Calphalon brand but for this?!
I've also found out that the Poly Oil is difficult to acquire as it was used to address an older problem which has decreased in occurrences. They figured it out and engineered a solution and eliminated a need for this fix, which was a temporary fix at that!
argh!
What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
A nice triplex industrial chain in a cover would be best!
I have never understood the HD fascination with a belt drive. They are enough trouble when used to drive camshafts and the like. Down exposed at the back of a M3W it is asking for trouble.
I'm amazed that MMC has chosen anodized aluminium for the "sprocket". As soon as the anodizing wears through the thing will begin to fail....and QC on anodizing thickness is virtually impossible.
A Titanium after market part anyone?
Peter, 66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...
Well, maybe just a mild steel one, run up on a lathe would do it, wouldn't it? A nice little job for Bill at Empire Racing, for next winter maybe. Bulk buy anyone?