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Joined: Aug 2013
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Formerly known as Aldermog
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Back in the days when I played with Motorbike suspension if i changed the springs I always changed the dampers as springs and dampers should work in harmony.

Many cheaper bikes (Triumph Bonneville) leave the factory over sprung and under damped. So if you uprate springs it is wise to look critically at the dampers.

Certainly if you change the stock springs after 6 years the stock dampers will almost certainly be tired, especially as they are not the best anyway. And if you fit 4 seater springs to a 2 seater car then I feel you will need to fit firmer, preferably adjustable, dampers.



Peter,
66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S
No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...

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Drive on the Wild Side
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Jays

Rosie's shocks are adjustable avows all round I have tried the rear shocks at various settings, Nothing, 1/4, 1/2 and full stiffness. The conclusion and this was also advised by Darren at New Elms was 2-3 three turns from softest just under 1/4 is best for a good ride and road use. Your roadster should have a similar feel to a +8 on the rear end. If you have them too stiff the spring will be restrained by the shock from compressing and returning after a bump and will make the car feel odd on uneven roads, stiff is fine on a smooth track when you want suspension to gradually compress when loaded and release gradually so as to not suddenly upset the cars balance.

cheers


Adrian

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DaveW Offline OP
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AVO's all round Peter, fitted soon after purchase. 4 clicks on the rear. 3 on the front.


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Having taken out the tool tray today & greased up the springs I can report that my S1 Roadster has a 6 leaf spring as predicted by Dave W


JohnV6
2022 CX Plus Four
2025 Renault Scenic Alpine etech "Yvette"
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At least the six leaves won't sag for a long time, but give a slightly harder ride - which I don't mind.


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Oh just caught up on this topic as looking for info after washing the mog and I suspect to much water on the wheels area has turned the car into captain creak tastic - I suspect I may have washed some lube from the leaf springs maybe?

With regards to my suspension when I popped into New Elms they thought I had a roadster sport and that it was already lowered? I have no none factory fitted suspension related equipment

Like Peter says I have 205/65/R15 profile tyres which is yet again another variable to consider in ride height measurements

For now creaks are my priority as it's not majorly banging or crashing


Mark - No Longer driving
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Remove the tool tray & spray the leaves with first penetrating oil and then motorbike chain grease


JohnV6
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I sprayed the springs this morning with copper grease.

Not sure if they were quieter on way in to work this afternoon, as the wind noise and exhaust note sort of drowned things out a little wink


Mark - No Longer driving
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DaveW Offline OP
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Post Photobucket Re-Boot...............................

I started this job on this thread:
http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/205745/Re_Todays_jobs_preparing_for_t#Post205745

I figured that a relaxed approach by preparing everything else first was a good way, hence the thread above.
You need to remove the seats and the spare wheel. Access to the rear shackles is through the spare wheel hole, and I really can't see how you could do this job with a Sport model without a spare wheel hole. Grovelling down behind the seats may be possible, but it would be unpleasant.

First a few observations:
Even the guides on line are rather sketchy on the best way to do this job, so it's very much suck it and see.

The rear shackle has to be lifted from the chassis with spring attached, because the spring bolt wont come out until the shackle is released. Access under the rear compartment is tight although the bolt head is on the outside of the chassis. There are two thick washers - one each side of the shackle between it and the chassis. They drop into the chassis on removal and are very, very difficult to replace. On the nearside, both washers were on the inside.......

The U bolts - the inner pair are easy to get off and unwind easily. Mulfab told me that I could re-use the 7/8" U bolts.
The outer pair are much harder to access, an open ender is essential, and most of the fasteners on this job are 5/8"AF.

Anyway, on with the story......................
First a shot of Bumble's naked interior. I had selected a set of stainless screws to replace the mixed bag of fasteners which MMC provide to hold down the spring covers.
The body number is 4133.



Here's the Denso Tape - worth a punt I thought and used by Land Rover owners.



Here's the inside of the head restraint hole. It's a funny angle but you can just see a neoprene strip which acts as a holder.



This is my oddment box of seatbelt fasteners. I wanted to smarten up the lower fastener which goes into the chassis and found a couple of chrome bling bolts.



These are the new springs. Note that the camber is slightly different, so the higher one will go onto the offside - extra weight of exhaust plus me.



Part number - 4 seater.



I left them overnight to soak up the oil.......
One had some damage to the centre through bolt, so I swopped it for one off the old springs.



First side was the offside.
This is the rear shackle bolt head.



Here's the other end with nut removed.



Once the shackle was released, I removed the U bolts, using small blocks of wood to hold the spring above the chassis rail for access.
Next was the front shackle. I used two G clamps as follows:



The bolt came out easily, but to be honest, the springs were so flat that there wasn't much tension.
Note the two captive bolts for the exhaust bracket to the left of the first spring keeper.



Here is the position with clamps removed. Not even pressing upwards on the body.



Here it is against the new wrapped spring - note the camber difference!





More to follow.................


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
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I lifted the new spring into place from underneath. First slot forward, then back, with shackle attached. The rear shackle was about 2" above the chassis mounting point and there's no room to lever, and no room to fit those two washers. What followed was a period of intense frustration, as first I came to grips with how to push the new spring down far enough to locate the through bolt, The centre of the spring was touching the chassis and the front was hard up against the body. A solution proved very difficult. In the end I went for cable ties (of all things!). Using cable ties I could hold the shackle down, but then fitting the two washers was frustration after frustration. Eventually I managed it............



This is why it was so hard:



The U bolts on this side almost fell into place - all you have to do is to keep enough clearance to get the nuts started, and manipulate the axle height using a jack.
So next came the front fastener - much more of a challenge!
Compare this with the old spring in this position.



So I had to be much more careful with the G clamps.



In no time at all..........



Job done.........(one side anyway).



More to follow...........


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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