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by Joske Vermeule, September 1
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Joined: Mar 2014
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Hi Richard,Ive only just joined so am a bit late with this tip,you could always try reverse bleeding,you would need a syringe to fit the bleed pipe,be very gentle with the pressure using this system,just send the fluid in reverse through the calipers,checking your master cylinder as you go.After you have reverse bled use the holding pedal down trick over night with the master cylinder cap loosened off,I think you may find this will take care of stubborn air within the system,hope your all sorted and good luck..
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Never too late, I guess I achieved the same thing of sorts by taking the calipers off, using the brake pedal to push the pistons out and then pushing them back - your suggestion sounds easier.
Thanks!
Richard 1976 4/4 4 Seater
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Richard, one of the things that used to work to bleed brakes which were proving difficult was to compress the pistons in the cylinders to reduce the amount of volume, this combined with clamping the flexible hoses would sometimes worked on vehicles with 1/4" bore pipes such as old 48-53 Land Rovers.
John
1989 911 Porsche Carrera Land Rover Series Defender 90 SW
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Richard 1976 4/4 4 Seater
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@Richard_Aus the sequence of bleeding is IMHO wrong. Had similar problem on my RHD Plus 8 (2001). Found in gomog manual that you must start at the front axle left side ('cause dual piston caliper) - then front axle right side - then rear axle right side and finally rear axle left side. Repeat: RHD Its different for LHD ! Axel
Advantage of hydraulic brakes: equally surface pressure all around (old advertisment of ATE)
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Drive on the Wild Side Part of the Furniture
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Drive on the Wild Side Part of the Furniture
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Having worked on cars for many years, when it comes to bleeding brakes I was taught to start at the furthest from the master cylinder the the next nearest and so on. On most Rhd cars this means, rear near side, then rear offside, front near side, last front offside. Bleed each one until no more air bubbles, and lock off bleed nipple with helper holding pedal down. I repeat the process twice, check that I have a high solid pedal, if not I repeat one more time. A bleed pipe with a non return valve helps the process, and never put brake fluid that you have used during the bleed process into the cylinder. To do properly may require 1 -1.5 litres of fluid. After a gentle test run. Park car and check no leaks.
Adrian
Buggered Off, to a modern none leaky car, heart's still ticking
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Thanks both. I isolated the problem to the front caliper a by clamping the flexible brake pipes. Just took more bleeding and a bit of the new pads bedding in to settle the feel.
Richard 1976 4/4 4 Seater
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Thanks both. I isolated the problem to the front caliper a by clamping the flexible brake pipes. Just took more bleeding and a bit of the new pads bedding in to settle the feel.
Richard 1976 4/4 4 Seater
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@Richard-Aus here is the paragraph of the gomog workshop manual http://www.gomog.com/brakes.html(Assuming always that your Master Cylinder is properly bled), commence the bleeding at the wheels with the near side rear drum brake if you have drums all around, but if the car has rear drums and front discs, start at the front near side wheel.Axel
Advantage of hydraulic brakes: equally surface pressure all around (old advertisment of ATE)
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And I'm always wary of information provided on that site Axel...
My LR has discs front, drum rear - always start with the furthest brake from the master cylinder (LR workshop manual)... I do same with Mog.
Graham (G4FUJ)
Sold L44FOR 4/4 Giallo Fly '11 MINI Countryman Cooper D All4 '90 LR 90 SW
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