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TimG #210913 19/07/14 09:47 PM
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I just want to stress that I am quite happy with what ever the grease nipple has done. Wether it lasts I have no idea, I have only done a 1000 km after the upgrade.

As far as I know it was done under warranty.


M3W, now!!!
TimG #211112 20/07/14 07:31 PM
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JVS Offline
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Is there a tread on where and how to install the compensator grease fitting ?


JV Sclafani
Boca Raton, FL
'13 M3W Metallic Orange Pearl
128CI Steered by Empire - Riding on Ohlins
TimG #211120 20/07/14 09:02 PM
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My compensator was changed last September for one with a grease nipple in. When it starts to get a bit noisy I pump some high pressure grease in and that sorts it out. It is now that quiet all I can hear is the BB instead.

TimG #211184 21/07/14 07:16 AM
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So do i
After a big ride i put grease And it is quiet.

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So where is the grease going?

I thought it was a sealed unit.


Red Leader drive
TimG #211272 21/07/14 04:05 PM
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p

In the cylinder on the left

Last edited by atalante83; 21/07/14 04:06 PM.
TimG #211274 21/07/14 04:08 PM
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Wow - what an interesting diagram!!! thanks for posting!!


Neil

TimG #211275 21/07/14 04:09 PM
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Part number 4

JVS #211304 21/07/14 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted By JVS
Is there a tread on where and how to install the compensator grease fitting ?



Number 3

Last edited by atalante83; 21/07/14 05:20 PM.
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Originally Posted By atalante83
p

In the cylinder on the left


My question has always been this, why have all the complicated compensator when they have the BMW type driveshaft torsional damper, item 20 that on my quote picture is cropped on the side, but is the lower right part with a bunch of holes in it.

I was thinking that they're obviously strong enough for a BMW sedan to use on their drive shaft and one has more than enough to work on a M3W, why not stack three of them keeping each as a separate in series stack? I think that would be a great compensator without any moving parts, so to speak. No grease and self aligning. The motor crank would stabilize the one end of the stack and the flywheel for trans through the adapter plate bearing would hold true the clutch end.

I think there would be more than enough strength as well as shock absorbing capabilities to do the jog. Then Centa is still rubber inserts being pressed and this would just be rubber twisting.

Any thoughts on this as an option? It would sure be cheaper as these rubber couplings sell on ebay for under $40 each. So three would be $120 and bolting them together shouldn't cost much. The motor plate on the rotor could be tapped to bolt directly to it on one end and the other end already has the rubber ring and adapter that slides over the trans flywheel input shaft.

It seems like a no brainer to me, again thoughts?


Dan
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