Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Aero 8, 2012< Plus 8, SuperSports, Coupe & Aeromax 1,000 mile review || As it could be?

I gave praised the car here, now for the niggles.

I'll never part with the Aero, it's already an adopted stray, family. It's just too charming and too special (although that's the wrong word).

I know it's heretical to say, but could some minor tweaks make things better?

As it could be?
I knew what I was getting into. Malvern doesn't churn out cars without character, but some of that character I could do without .
I will take any advice on any improvements the group has made; there is little support in the US, so I'm on my own or at the hands of people that haven't even heard of a Mog. My gripes--

Fit and finish:
-The wood is rubbing the windshield. I believe a soft plastic shim would do the trick, but I don't know how to take the dash apart and I'm concerned I will perform a "one way" operations that will ruin a part that is difficult to source.
-Squeaks, rattles, and or shakes. What's normal? Medium speed (20-40 mph) seems to be the worst. For example, every bump induces a rattle from the folded top, and creates squeaking from various areas in the "interior" (it's hard to localize). Are you getting this in your Aeros? I'm contemplating some alcantara in areas where leather rubs leather.
- Any interior improvements available? It's a bit rough around the edges (the actual edges). I think some prefab piping would do wonders to areas like the glovebox where there is no edge trim. Any ideas? Professional leather workers and reputable automotive upholsters are few and far between (those we have are for the concourse types and quite expensive). I'm going to do something, you'll get updates
- Roof seal is, well it doesn't seal. I have about a 1/4 inch gap about 3-inches long on the drivers side near the A pillar. Is it possible to adjust the roof in some manner?
- Finally, anyone experimented with applying dynamat? I've added it to a some cars in the past and been pleased with the elimination of high frequency noise, buzz, and rattles. Not sure of the effect it would have on the Aero. I don't expect to make an open top, side exhaust roadster quiet (!) but I'm curious if it could be used to eliminate some of the rattles.

Ride and driveline:
- Ride is a bit harsh for our horrible streets. Is a softer set-up available?
- I'm due to replace the original P-zeros. I know most on here have opted for more traction at any cost of comfort, but has anyone gone the other direction such and found a more relaxed tire? I know it's a sports car, but I'm not a maximum attack 99% of the time.
- Driveline lash (bucking?) under moderate acceleration from 1st to 2nd. Any solution? I know there was a modification from S1 cars to S2 to fit a stronger brace but can anything else be done? I can tame it with careful shifting, but any novice drivers are hopelessly doomed--I tell them to start in 2nd.
- It's 90 degrees here in the summer, but wow, that's a LOT of heat being thrown into the footwells. Anyone added shielding?

I'm sorry for coming across as a **** or negative, I want actually to make the experience even better and share that with the our community! I'll keep you abreast of the my experiments and results--please make suggestions!

All the best (again),
MR

I am sure others will be along soon with thoughts on fixes.

Mateo, many of the issues you have listed above should be considered "documented features". Heat in the cabin is certainly an Aero weak point. Even with the air con running it can get pretty warm pretty quickly. Summer cruises are out of the question if the temperatures rise above 30c for any length of time.

Creaks/rattles etc are par for the course. I have learned to live with them, as well as carrying an 8mm spanner with me to adjust the roof (I have a Supersport). Even that leaks! Although having the windscreen refitted has removed one point of water ingress!!

Ride quality improves with speed, which can be a dangerous thing in the Aero. I was reading about the Ohlins units in the Megane Trophy which are setup to provide the same compression and rebound response in order to all the car a more supple ride when riding kerbs (track). This left me wondering whether the Aeros suspension has been tuned to run softer springs but quite aggressive rebound rates and VERY aggressive compression rates. I am sure it is not helped by the skinny rubber it wears.

If I can get the money together I will be looking to move my Aero off 19" wheels onto a set of 18s next year in an attempt to resolve some of the low speed harshness.

Does anyone have information on anti-roll on the Aero?

I am due to take the SS out tomorrow for a little jolly and will be giving it the once over later this morning, and may get my head underneath to check on the dampers.

MR,

I have fully Dynamatted the cockpit of my 2009 Roadster! It was an interesting experience and used 10 full sheets.

Results:
1. significantly quieter, hood down conversation is easy up to 55mph, no need to raise a voice. Likewise the audio can be enjoyed.
2. noticeably less heat soak from the transmission and cats: on the Roadster the cats are separated from your feet by 2" air space and a thin stainless steel panel.
3. The car feels more "together" and refined.

Conclusion: Morgan should offer a full Dynamat installation on all cars. But it would not be cheap. The material isn't cheap and even if fitted at build I'd estimate one man day.

All you comments about fit and finish are "normal" for Morgan. They should not be so as they reflect lack of care rather than "essential Morgan character".

As with your Aero the Roadster has that "something" that make it impossible to consider life without it.

Thank you all for not bringing the pitchforks and torches!



Thank you Peter--
Dynamat, heat shielding, and alcantara are Project 1!
What areas did you do? How "aggressive" was your application? I have some concerns about applying the Dmat adhesive to the aluminum, but I doubt it will do any irreversible harm (I'll ask teh factory). My other area of concern is pulling up the carpet and then getting it back down. Spray on upholstery adhesive?

Thanks all- MR

I did ALL the footwells, floor, sides, bulkhead including the "roof" of the footwell plus transmission tunnel sides, the full floor, door insides, and the rear bulkhead. So quite agressive.

On the passenger side the glued on carpet came off without a problem but on the drivers side the end of the footwell and off side pieces didn't want to give up. I had to have new carpets made by Williams. £50.00 and done by Austin (ex MMC trimmer)whilst I waited.

I didn't use spray on ashesive to replace them but double sided carpet fixing tape.

As to the possible impact of the adhesive on aluminium I don't believe it is at all an issue.

I am skilled in the roof area as when I bought the car the roof was a symphony of noises. I did the following:-
1)Adjusted the roof latches such that they would clear the hooks only after the roof was pressed lightly onto the seals.
2)Sprayed silicone sealant on the rubbers around the roof opening and between the roof panels.
3)Packed the locating holes for the roof with heavy grease.
4)Enjoyed no squeaking and rattling even on British roads.

Thank you Mr. Freeman--
1. I interpret this as: let the latches do as much "work" as possible snugging the roof to chassis.
2. OK!
3. Any type in particular? I presume a think silicon will keep the seals in good spec and my clothes clean.
4. Cheers!I had no weekend plans until now!

-MR

Correct on the latches.
Can use spray silicone (just wipe over after to prvent drips.
Heavy duty grease in locating holes ( I used a plastic filler knife to get maximum penetration and clean finish)

The rubber seals along the top and corners of the screen should be replaced, they bolt off/on and you can do them yourself. It makes a lot of difference to the seal and I changed the clamps at the same time (second time I have done this). You will also need a good seal for the A/C to have any chance in US heat.

The biggest change was sending the car back to the factory and getting them to adjust the hood frame. It went up and down more smoothly. I guess this is not an option for you so I would aim to find a local car restorer (old alfas and other stuff with dicky roof designs) and get them to apply the skills they have.

The heat in the foot well is just that. A feature. It won't really go away. The car has a panelled underside and so the heat needs to go somewhere. The only other option is extended ventilation throughout the chassis/body but no one has gone ahead with that to my knowledge. Perhaps putting louvres in the bonnet may reduce it. They also look pretty. If you have less of an issue with rain than us lwer vents may be an option but zero knowledge of that is around. The aero-dynamics of the car are already a little unsound so you may not want to mess with them.

The Air-Con may have become U/S due to lack of use. I also put the additional foam beading above/around the air intake of my fan/heater matrix some time back to reduce warm air in from the engine bay, make certain it does not go too high and push the bonnet.

Rattles - yes, move on. Just turn the engine up. Sidepipes. Ear plugs. One-by-one identification on a test drive with a mechanic spotting them.

New dampers and tyres should certainly improve it as they are a bit aged. The comment re 17" wheels will likely be the best option. I also worry that this is a cultural issue. My experience of US owners is that they expect a deal of compliance in the car, even at the Porsche car level. Not an Aero - sorry - they were designed to be like that, without bushes and absorbent joints, Early S1 were rose jointed and that was a wicked !

It may be a perspective thing that you need to deal with I am afraid. I would do the dampers and tyres, switch to a lower rim size if you can. Embrace the Aero for what it is.

The "lash/shunt" in 1st and up to 2nd will probably fell like this if I understand correctly.

Needs a few revs to get of the line as the clutch is a little "bitty"
As it comes in fully you feel a bit of slack/backlash in the drivetrain.
You go up through the gear (quickly!)
You declutch and go for second.
As you de-clutch it pulls back slightly and jiggles front-to-back.
Revs stay high and don't drop so fast.
As you bring in second the revs mis-match ("do I have to wait forever" in your mind)
The car pulls forwards with a little shunt in the drive line as the clutch comes in.

During this you get a nice assortment of rattles from the box and driveline.

If it feels at all like that you are fine, its true, they all do that.

Drive around it. You learn to balance the clutch and revs. At the high end of first just take the power off so you are coasting without any acceleration/deceleration load before you unload the clutch. Or feather it out like you would slip a clutch back in.

In many cases I pull away softly in second. The side pipes making this sound even more fun, zero revs bop-bop through the side pipes. If I pull away in first I just do what any race car expects and don't spare the horses. Not over-loud but with commitment. I then give a good pause before going for second to let the revs come down. Its boring if you are going for it but I agree the slack/whack is uncomfortable otherwise. The less you soft pedal it the less its an issue. Of course your police-force is differently displaced when seeing this so don't blame some English bloke on a forum telling you to do it, it won't get you off the ticket.

Sounds like you have a project that will keep you happy for quite a while. Excellent.