Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 urban cooling kit - bug or feature?

I've had to send mine back to the factory again...long and weary story but I have requested the cooling kit. What is the general consensus then. Worth it? Or is it something else to go wrong....

Fit & forget. Makes a change..

I have lost the bubble . . . I don't have a new M3W so that is probably why. What is the technical evolution of the 2012 to 2013 to 2014 spec?? I saw a comment on a chassis change and have read the MMC's comments on changes to the 2014 model, but don't get all the other mods? Can someone paint a concise picture for me?? Thanks,

there was no explicit 2013 model, however since 2012 along with some other improvements the 2014 model has:
- a triangulated 'webbing' between the engine and bonnet connecting the in-line and transverse chassis tubes at the top front. (note in q8's picture he only has a horizontal bar indicating pre 2014 and post early 2012) the triagulation must also have caused a change to the horizontal beam location otherwise there would be interference between the steering rack and webbing.
- vents at the back of the car (purely aesthetic and look like 4 wheeler bonnet vents, i am sure they have a proper name)
- new steering set up
- different oil tank with oil outlet so as to ease oil changes. dipstic part of tank rather than cap.
- new brake fluid reservoir tanks
- plastic tube cable and piping protection
- tri rectifier mount (three bobbins) (i think the latest models have the rectifier facing left?)
- centra drive compensator (rubber rather than spring based torque smoother between the engine and gearbox
- different price list and options scheme for new models such as body coloured cowl.
- cooling kit (don't know if this is a deletion option or is fixed as standard, some people thing its ugly)
- bevel box mount made of aluminium and different design for resonance absorbtion like the retro-fit upgrade????



there were however constant updates between the 2012 model introduction and the 2014 model as the company implemented many essential improvements onto the production line process rather than wait for the 2014 release. notably the alignment of the rear wheel on very early cars was a couple of cm too much to the left. the sprockets at the back were also changed as was the bevel box design.




on the subject of vibration and fatigue:
as long as the vibration is below the fatigue limit of the steel, the steel can be vibrated a near infinite number of times without cracking.
vibrations on the steel may even strengthen items due to 'cold working hardening'

However, once a deformity has been 'induced', then a crack can grow because at the apex of the crack, the
lattice is stressed beyond the fatigue limit.
ie vibration of the engine alone cannot cause cracking, but may make it worse once an incident has happened.
that is why it is important to deal with the pre 2012 chassis phenomenon before you hit the bad pothole, rather than wait for a crack to appear. the problem is that the engine has to come out for any strengthening work to be done. 8 hours labour plus parts and welding skill/ risk.


in contrast aluminium sufferes from creep where the atoms in the lattice can slide past one another permanently at room temperature with a force applied. (that is why the frame chassis is not made of aluminium and why aircraft servicing is required every few landings.)

Thanks. A big help.
Cheers,

[url=[URL=http://s1349.photobucket.com/user/Q8morgan/media/imagejpg1_zps07b044ae.jpg.html][/url]][/url]

Painted the covers & done with installation.the fan pushes air towards the engine & all is good.
but i noticed on the fan the sticker saying rotation should be the other direction...

The factory should have chosen a reversable fan..it would have blades that would get more airflow..cfm

I see some of you guys have made your own kits and others have done the MMC kits.

All I can add to this is that just be careful that when you shroud the rear of the motor that there remains enough air flow around the cylinders and heads to sufficiently keep the motor cool while driving at speed.

If the fan system and shroud are too restrictive, the air will build back pressure in front of the fan and make an air barrier of sorts and cooling could be limited.

I've run Spal dual 11" fans on street rods for quite some time. The shroud that comes with the dual Spal fans have rubber one way flap, kind of like very loos reed valves. When the fan is on and sucking air through the radiator, the flaps stay closed and provide a full amount of suction to the complete radiator surface. When the car is running and the air pressure in front overcomes the amount of air pulled through by the fans, the "extra" air just passes through the little rubber flaps so there is no backpressure for air flow.

Not that I've seen anything close to this, but if the sides of the factory kit wrapped around the rear of the cylinders any further, it might be close to restricting the normal driving air flow.

I very much like the ingenuity of some of the home built kits I've seen.

Keep up the great work...

Have a great afternoon.