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P Dron #695776 26/03/21 11:25 PM
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People on here give the worst possible, most inaccurate information and advice conceivable. It’s almost as if the want you to f up your Morgan . It’s incredible

P Dron #695781 27/03/21 01:23 AM
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The trouble is that the wiring diagram most available is not a circuit diagram so doesn’t provide all aspects of what’s going on within the black boxes - The charging circuit is pretty much a Harley circuit hence a 5 wire rectifier.(This is why we swap for a Harley rectifier)

*1 disconnect the battery

2. Leave everything connected but remove the old rectifier & fit the Harley one direct to the chassis. (let the old rectifier hang but with the loom connector clear of the loom conduit.

3. Disconnect the old rectifier short lead from the chassis & Connect the new rectifier short lead to the chassis ground point next to the rectifier.

4. Unlock & disconnect the environmental multi-contact rectifier connector & compare with new Harley connector orientation and condition - ensure 3 pins/sockets present and no burnt pins/sockets or connector interfacial seal splits.

NOTE - 3 contacts are phase inputs (generator outputs) - These rectifier inputs connect via the 4 contact environmental connector - (only 3 of which have contacts used the 4th is environmentally sealed to prevent cross phase connection)

5. Having ensured all is good with the connector - Reconnect the new rectifier connector half with the generator half and ensure it’s both fully home & snap locked, also ensure the environmental plug seals the 4th unused contact or hole.

The Long lead (ring terminal needs to be changed for a larger ring terminal) as previously mentioned connects to the red terminal on the bulkhead again B+ and the short lead with ring terminal connects to the chassis ground.

6. Now you’re in a position to run the long lead either in the main loom or attached to the loom up & through into the under bonnet bulkhead positive terminal location - Change the Harley rectifier crimped ring terminal for a larger one so it fits onto the terminal & connect.

7. carry out a loose article check under the bonnet

8. You can now reconnect the battery & run & test the charging with display showing voltage. 14.4V is good

9. Pull the old loom through - re cable tie the new one

10. carry out a final loose article check & fit bonnet - re adjust Dzeus fasteners & fit bonnet again - swear, read it the riot act & fit bonnet. - Now breath once again

pack away the tools have a cuppa then test drive for around 700 -1000 miles or until the next flatbed event.

Mogegg #695813 27/03/21 09:19 AM
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“ People on here give the worst possible, most inaccurate information and advice conceivable. It’s almost as if the want you to f up your Morgan . It’s incredible”


10/10 for the most unsubstantiated comment of the year.

Last edited by IMHO; 27/03/21 09:22 AM.

M3W Brooklands (2015)
Moody 41 (2013)
P Dron #695826 27/03/21 10:59 AM
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If it was'nt for the fantastic technical discussions and advice given on this forum over the years most M3Ws would be off the road


PaulR

1 member likes this: Will Stotts
PaulR #695832 27/03/21 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by PaulR
If it was'nt for the fantastic technical discussions and advice given on this forum over the years most M3Ws would be off the road


I totally agree. MMC has been very little help.


The light at the end of the tunnel is actually a train. 2019 M3W

P Dron #695840 27/03/21 12:12 PM
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Another thing you might want to consider while swapping to the H-D Rectifier is to reposition it on the front bulkhead. I know Phil Bleazey favours this and it does fit nicely in that location and looks very 'factory'.

I fitted two M6 Rivnuts.

[Linked Image]

Before mounting the rectifier with a couple of 50mm Allen headed bolts (with shake-proof washers).

[Linked Image]

A sheet of self-adhesive neoprene rubber on the back of the rectifier cushions it from the bodywork. I also put some 5mm convoluted sleeving over the long lead for added protection and obviously replaced the ring connector with a 10.5mm one (with an adhesive-lined heat shrink sleeve for good measure).

[Linked Image]

The local ground connection was made to the oblique rack mount bracket. The main lead connects to the alternator very neatly from the new location too.

[Linked Image]

All in all, one of my more satisfying projects!

Last edited by Bunny; 27/03/21 12:12 PM.

Andy
P Dron #695848 27/03/21 12:44 PM
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Neat job!

Mogegg #695880 27/03/21 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Mogegg
People on here give the worst possible, most inaccurate information and advice conceivable. It’s almost as if the want you to f up your Morgan . It’s incredible


Wow Mogegg. You joined in Feb 21 and 8 posts. Still it is 50 elapsed days of experience of TM.. Not jumping to any snap judgements yet then? You missed out that we are spiteful, vindictive, fake news propagators. Think I willh ave to rethink all the fantastic advice I have been given. rofl

Mogegg #695883 27/03/21 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mogegg
People on here give the worst possible, most inaccurate information and advice conceivable. It’s almost as if the want you to f up your Morgan . It’s incredible


Whew! Have a pint. Have another. Then it will be a better day...


2018 S&S 110th Beetleback
1934 MX4 Beetleback
1965 Corvette Coupe 327/350
P Dron #695892 27/03/21 05:05 PM
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Perhaps Peter could tell us if the advice given was useful. It's been nearly 7 years now so I assume he's got around to the job smile


2011 Morgan 4/4
1932 Austin 7 Chummy
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