Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing shiney shiney

The instruction manual for my new Morgan still says "don't wax" for three months because the paint needs to cure. Not sure about all of the above, but I was hoping it would cure a bit because at the moment it the paint is very delicate. JT

Can you elaborate on this please? What do you mena by delicate?

My sources have confirmed that modern paints should not need any extra curing and should be protected by a wax as soons as possible.

Delicate,
The paint just seems to be soft. I feel I have to be really carefull washing it or it will scratch. If I use a normal brush or a normal towel to dry it it leaves tiny scratches.
JT

You need to use the two bucket wash method and a lambswool mitt! It'll greatly reduce the annoying scratch marks....then use microfibre cloth gently dab dry. Or like me use a leaf blower to blow dry the car, then use the microfibre cloth to dab dry residual water droplets.

I agree, I am doing that now, but I had the feeling my old car (10 years old) had a much more scratch resistant finish. Maybe it is the modern eco-friendly paints are softer? JT

Sounds like you need to get it protected with wax soonr than later then. Modern paints do vary in 'hardness'.

Thanks for the research, I guess I will wax it today, the sun is out and it probably has been three months since painted anyway. Is there any consensus or advice on what wax to use. On the other car I normally use good old turtle wax. Is it worth spending the money on "autoglymmmm" or "Mguiars" Does it give longer lasting protection or just ultra shiny finish?
JT

I've used both autoglym and meiguars.
Autoglym sees to give my paint the best clearest shine.
I use the resin polish and finish with a coat of the 'extra shine' gold label bottle.

I've use meiguars wax and it just seems to dull the finish if anything, but I'm no expert, thats why I started this thread. I'm still no closer to understanding what the ideal way to look after the morgan is...

This is a deep subject ..how long you got....

In short I would not use either (then again I'm biased as a Zymol agent) but a full high % Carnauba Wax. If you want long lasting protection then proper preparation of the surface with the complete removal of any existing contaminants followed by a good wax (at least 25% Carnauba, preferably more) and then use only plain filtered water or a non detergent containing wash (I only know of one I can vouch for) for a long lasting finish. Should then last 3 -6 months between waxes - otherwise you need to wax every week for best protection. So if you look at the price spent over a couple of years it does not make the high end waxes look that expensive after all.

When I get time and with Simon's permission I can explain the full Zymol system if you like.

Would be interested to hear about it Phil.

I guess the bit I'm most unclear about is the bit prior to waxing. I get the clay bar bit, but I guess I'm wondering about how to get the paintwork back to 'like new' before waxing - i.e. removing swirls, and getting a real mirror shine.

T-Cut seems to be the only product I actually understand here, and my knowledge extends as far as knowing it's basically rubbing off a micro thin layer of paint. As such I'd call it a polish - and to be frank with the clever flip paint I have on the aero it will be a cold day in hell before I go anywhere near it with T-Cut!

The resin polish from autoglymn seems not to be a polish, but more of a wax, but I'm not 100% sure. Certainly the best product I've used, though it's bloody hard work the results don't last ,long and you risk leaving white residue around the place.