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Scruffy Oik
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Originally Posted By milligoon
tbh - I'd rather have pads that over hang the disc than pads that don't meet the edge of the disc, that way you do not get a rusty crusty ridge on the end of the disc.

But that said it may be that the pads are not fully located down and held down by the retaining springs in the first place.

It'll be interesting to see what you find when reassembling with new springs and pads.


I think the issue with pads overlapping the disc is that as the pads wear more and more there is a risk that the unworn edges will meet and prevent the pads hitting the discs properly.

But as you say, it may be a location issue caused by the retaining clips and/or the pads. IME disc pads are not made to particularly exacting dimensional tolerances,



Tim H.
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Tricky Dicky
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When replacing the pads on my 4/4 Sport (due to one pad delaminating) I put a slight chamfer +/- 1.5mm on the unswept part of the pad (outer edge) which is supposed to prevent this problem.

In the following 8,000 miles it had appeared to work as there was no overhang of friction material on the disc edge evident but it was still early days.

Last edited by 4/4sportsfun; 20/10/14 07:06 AM.

2009 4/4 Sport Henrietta
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Great write up Dave, on the pads I think you should take/send back they really should not overhang, this is no no, poorly made. I was talking with someone a while back on pads for Morgan's and their opinion of Greenstuff was very low, ie. Failed pads, cracking and poor braking, they raced by the way. I found Mintex to be very good. cheers


Adrian

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Originally Posted By Hamwich
Originally Posted By milligoon
tbh - I'd rather have pads that over hang the disc than pads that don't meet the edge of the disc, that way you do not get a rusty crusty ridge on the end of the disc.

But that said it may be that the pads are not fully located down and held down by the retaining springs in the first place.

It'll be interesting to see what you find when reassembling with new springs and pads.


The big issue with pads developing a lip is that this lip can brake off and either jam the brake or reduce brake efficiency. On a bike both are really not what you want. On a car the consequences are less, but still not good.

In my view any design of disk/pad that allows the pad to sit so it is larger than the disk isn't fit for purpose.

Is it just the stock pads? Aldermog has alternative (not EBC) pads. I must check to see if this has happened. At the very least the pads need checking every 5000 miles and any lip removed. But the real answer is to upgrade the front brakes to something that is properly designed.

I think the issue with pads overlapping the disc is that as the pads wear more and more there is a risk that the unworn edges will meet and prevent the pads hitting the discs properly.

But as you say, it may be a location issue caused by the retaining clips and/or the pads. IME disc pads are not made to particularly exacting dimensional tolerances,



Peter,
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DaveW Offline OP
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Well, the first observation is that the new pads when fully located still overhang the outer edge. The inner edge is bang up agaist the inner edge of the disc, so skimming a bit off each angled corner of the backplate, to 'edge it' down won't really work, although I did consider it.
I've had Greenstuff discs & pads on the Roadster for six years, they were fitted when I got it, and have been no trouble. Maybe I don't brake hard enough. smirk2

Anyway back to the story:

Here's a closer photo of the reamer. The silver tube on the right is the pilot with a sliding adjustable collar, which to be honest is not much use with Morgan stubs due to the length, but the pilot is essential to keep it straight. As the cutting blades adjust right to left they ride up a taper so cut a larger diameter hole, They are retained at each end by a taper threaded collar. Black on the left, silver on the right.



This show the model number - there are loads to chose from.



Reamer adjusted, job done, and cleaned out - I'm getting faster each time I do this.



Here's the nearside on the way up. I slot a screwdriver in the base just in case the rebound spring makes a bid for freedom, but it seems quite stable and once it gets inside the lower tube bracket it can't go far. (Picture will rotate tomorrow).



Almost back together:



Pads and lube - it's just like Coppaslip.



Not enough angle to see the overhang...........just visible as a pink band.





So all I have to do now is make up a set of deluxe gaiters as I fitted to the Roadster after the kingpin job, oh and then do a full service. Good job I'm part time retired, and that MrsW is tolerant. grin2




DaveW
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+1 Ever thought of writing a workshop manual?


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Originally Posted By BobtheTrain
+1 Ever thought of writing a workshop manual?


Better still - a DaveW workshop class!


Roger

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Excellent as always Dave.


Martin (Deano)
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Quite surprised that the backing plate hits the hub of the disc you would have thought the pads would have shouldered up against the caliper carriers?

If you put a pad in the caliper with it off the disc does it fall right through it?

That wouldn't make any sense as the inside pad would drop down??

It'd be interesting to see the drawings from the caliper manufacturer regarding pad dimensions.


Mark - No Longer driving
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Has a lot to Say!
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Are you taking bookings, Dave?


John

Silver 2005 S1 Roadster V6 - Henrietta
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