Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Greasing My nipples !

Graham & Ray, those are interesting thoughts.

Do you use 120 SAE oil Graham?

Chain saw oil is very 'sticky' which is a suitable attribute. It's possible that using it would make the use of lower gaitor even more important in order to avoid even more powerful 'grinding paste' wear on the lower bush and associated king
in area.

Haven't got any David. Forget who suggested it to me...
Not the kind of thing one finds on car spares shop shelves!

I'm not grubbing around any top shelves! Even my reputation would wilt if discovered doing that! Anyway, having arrived at the dubious age of 60, I'm not sure that I can summon the energy to reach that far up - it's the frozen shoulder gov'nor!

Quote ''When the car was re-chassised by David Rutherford, he removed the 'one-shot' oiler valve and associated pipework and replaced them with a nipple on the kingpin top. David's advice was to use grease (I use Castrol SMX moly grease or similar) in the stub axle and heavy oil (EP90) for the top nipple.''

David Rutherford is not alone John Worral says the same. Grease just sits on the top bearing seal if it gets down that far.

I use Molyslip Gearbox additive in the kingpin and waterproof grease in the hub. This grease also has anti corrosion properties as it is used by the marine industry.

The steering is smooth and light and this has been the best combination I have tried over the years.

You've made a sound statement referring to the fact that the grease tends to sit around the top bush Titus.

On over-greased cars, one can see piles of grease sitting at the bottom of the top spring and around the damper plate for radial bearing when fitted. Often there's so much that it risks contaminating the brake capiler and disk. Constant vibration or a good thud will dislodge the build-up of grease nicely!

The grease rarely gets to the bottom bush. This is the main area for wear. It's where the main pressure is presented to the kingpin/ stub axle assembly particularly when cornering. Combine this with all the lovely road debris and grit thrown up off the road and one has a most effective application of grinding paste wearing away the bearing and surface.

The combination of EP90 or EP120 oil at the top and grease at the bottom makes complete sense. Looking at drawings of the suspension assembly it is easy to understand where the lower grease goes and what it does, but the upper?

Something I'd try, if I was keeping Aldermog...

From memory one gallery goes into the 'chamber' between the two bearings; another gallery exits onto the top surface of the stub axle where the damper pad sits between the stub axle and spring. I believe that this latter one was deleted after Morgan deleted the damper pad/ blade assembly for a radial bearing. For a time, I understand that Morgan continued without deleting this grease exit point with the result that pumped grease flowed freely out of the stub axle rather than going into the chamber.

It's worth remembering that suspension is a dynamic thing; it goes up and down, twists around, is subjected to braking, cornering and shock forces as well as having to survive all the rain and sh1t thrown up by preceding traffic. Looking at it static only reveals some of its constraints and challenges. The point to remember with Morgan suspension is that it's a blacksmith's solution to an early 20th century problem.

A simplistic view is any lubricant is better than no lubricant.
Lubricate often (every 500-1000 miles).

Sparingly otherwise the excess grease risks covering one's caliper and disc.

Remember, the grease doen't get consumed. What goes in will come out; but not necessarily where you want it.

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