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Joined: Aug 2013
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Formerly known as Aldermog
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Originally Posted By DaveW
I think that the key objective is to keep moisture out from below. Ironically its impossible to keep it out from above!, but at least it ventilates easier.

Although I'm not a big fan of the appearance of the Dinitrol 4941 which the factory now use, there's no doubting its ability to repel moisture. So whatever you chose, make sure that where the floorboards meet the chassis, the water can't get in.


Dave, does the factory apply this black stuff, or is is left to a sub-contractor? Last time I was looking round it seemed that the cars in pdi didn't have any coating.

Jays knows, perhaps!


Peter,
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I'm wondering if I'm too lazy about this topic. Over the last years I thought the wood of newer Morgans does not need any further maintenance. So would you recommend to repeat the protection of the wood? I thought, the ash has been dived in cuprinol and would last forever...


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Originally Posted By Peter J
Originally Posted By DaveW
I think that the key objective is to keep moisture out from below. Ironically its impossible to keep it out from above!, but at least it ventilates easier.

Although I'm not a big fan of the appearance of the Dinitrol 4941 which the factory now use, there's no doubting its ability to repel moisture. So whatever you chose, make sure that where the floorboards meet the chassis, the water can't get in.


Dave, does the factory apply this black stuff, or is is left to a sub-contractor? Last time I was looking round it seemed that the cars in pdi didn't have any coating.

Jays knows, perhaps!


The cars go up into Malvern to a one man company who do the undersealing.......we don't want that messy job in the factory!


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Originally Posted By Heinz
I'm wondering if I'm too lazy about this topic. Over the last years I thought the wood of newer Morgans does not need any further maintenance. So would you recommend to repeat the protection of the wood? I thought, the ash has been dived in cuprinol and would last forever...


The ash frame has been dipped in a tank of Cuprinol as you say. The floors are also treated.


Jays
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I don't think the effects of Cuprinol would last forever, but if air can get to the treated wood to dry it out after getting wet, it should be fine.

The major place to watch out for is the area under the door frames. water that gets in here is held in by the sill padding, and can't easily get away. In the old days MMC used to use horsehair padding, which did a great job of promoting rot in the wood.

So long as your car has a chance to dry out properly after getting wet, either in a nice airy car port or a dehumidified garage where damp can't build up, I would think the wood would never suffer from the dreaded rot. The key is air circulation. Anything that seals or holds damp into the wood is bad, anything that gets air circulating past it is good.


Tim H.
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The question I have is does the application of Cuprinol to the framework after it has been clad, have a detrimental effect on the aluminium and the steel fastenings? With regard to any chemical reactions


Owen
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Formerly known as Aldermog
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From reading the Cuprinol data sheets - note that Cuprinol is not a single product but a generic title covering a range of products - it seems that it is not corrosive to metal. But nowhere is this clearly stated.


Peter,
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I use waxoyl & the wood has always been OK.
Inside I coat the floor boards & accessable plywood with teak oil


JohnV6
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Yes. The version Morgan used was Cuprisol. May still be the case...


Graham (G4FUJ)

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