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#253544 17/02/15 05:08 PM
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DaveW Offline OP
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You might be lucky enough not to have tread rubbers along your 'running boards'. You might have extra tread rubbers, so you might have up to three per side. You might think that they are passive and maintenance free thinking .

I've recently received an e-mail from an owner of a 2004 car, which was showing lumps under the tread rubbers which needed further investigation. The rubbers can be pulled out with a bit of effort. Don't use a tool unless you're desperate, because you may damage the aluminium strip.

This photo shows how the build up of corrosion under the rubber starts to create a bump over each fastener:


Once removed, here is what was revealed:




With a bit of fiddle, it's possible to get at all the nuts under the running boards, even though the silencers are in the way. Last autumn, I spent a day taking all the nuts off, and applying Coppaslip to the threads, finishing off with Tectyl506, but I didn't lift my tread rubbers.

If you do, you may find this:


But with a bit of elbow grease, it will come up like this:


I don't have a photo of the completed job, because Jon is having to source some new stainless bolts. The trims are square punched so the bolts are round headed coach bolts, probably with a square section under the heads.

Anyway, you know what I'm like, so this morning I thought I'd check the Roadster. The rubbers pulled out easily, leaving this sight:


Slight rust on some heads but nothing as bad as Jon's. So first I wet 'n dried the rusty heads before etch priming with a small brush. Then I squirted some ACF50 over the heads.


Then I cleaned up the rubbers using Armor All, before refitting. This requires maximum concentration, some lubrication (Armor All or similar) and a blunt screwdriver. Insert the inner lip first, work from both ends into the centre, and keep the screwdriver straight.


Maximum concentration will prevent a slip, and damage!
thumbs


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
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Originally Posted By DaveW
You might be lucky enough not to have tread rubbers along your 'running boards'.


I'm jolly glad not to have them. I think the rubbers only encourage people to think it's OK to put their feet on the "running boards" swear

Much easier to clean without them too thumbs


Giles. Mogless in Paris.
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Aldermog was developing the dreaded "bumps", I looked and found as you did. I was planning to remove the steel screws and replace with aluminium or titanium, until I realised that I'd have to remove the silencers. So the job was left for the winter, but instead we traded the car in against Tarka.

Tarka has no tread rubbers, just protective paint film...
It has got scuffed, you can't polish it out so may have it removed and perhaps replaced.

Why "perhaps"? I'm beginning to wonder if simply naked running boards might be best!



Peter,
66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S
No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...

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Dave, Thanks for that very timely post. I have just been giving the Mog a good old polish and was a bit worried about what lies underneath the tread rubbers (I have 3 per side!) I had previously tried to inject some ACF50 along the edges but realised this would not penetrate far. You have given me the confidence to remove the rubbers and see what lies beneath.


David
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What about just changing them for the self adhesive types? No water traps or bumps in the future. There was a posting on Mogtalk years ago of the supplier but from memory it was a caravan rubbing strip kind of thing. Maybe available via the boat world as well?


BR Colin
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DaveW Offline OP
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I think if I take mine off completely in the future, I might refit with double sided tape and some plastic pegs for location. Surprising that the factory don't use double sided tape anyway - these days the right stuff sticks really well. Pity the factory don't use stainless steel bolts, but I suppose that might be a problem through the aluminium.


DaveW
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C
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Morgan use horrible mild steel coach bolts. The easy solution is to remove them and replace with pop-rivets. They' don't react against the running strips, are easy to install and are out of sight. In addition, easy to remove with a drill.

Can't understand why they still use those coach bolts as screwing nuts takes time.

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I would be very wary of using a screwdriver for work like this, especially when the correct tool for the job is available (useful for many trim jobs) and if you slip no damage is done, on eBay search for WINDSCREEN FITTING REMOVAL TOOL SPATULAS PLASTIC CHISEL/ ROUND ENDED DIBBERS X 3


BR Colin
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Originally Posted By Cheshire_David
Morgan use horrible mild steel coach bolts. The easy solution is to remove them and replace with pop-rivets. They' don't react against the running strips, are easy to install and are out of sight. In addition, easy to remove with a drill.

Can't understand why they still use those coach bolts as screwing nuts takes time.


Brilliant answer... cheers

Aluminium to Aluminium and not goint to come lose in a hurry...

As you say, using pop rivits would save time, eliminate possible corrosion and generally be a better way.



Peter,
66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S
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The aluminium channels retains water. When I refurbished the screws on mine I packed the internal cavity with an elastomer friendly PTFE grease. A very messy job but I don’t think there is any room now for water.

Didn’t want to risk a petroleum based grease.

Last edited by Rog; 17/02/15 07:47 PM.

Roger
2011 Plus 4
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