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the dealer here in Phoenix flushes out the black goo and then fills to the orange plug with 75/140 synthetic. The box has gear noise but doesn't have that high pitched whine.

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Originally Posted By Rog G

I actually managed to do this from behind just had to remove the luggage tray. I have thin arms and was able to get my arm through the gap to unscrew the orange cap, oil was put with 100ml syringe and plastic tube.


This is a great method, but I couldn't reach my hand through from the top, so I used the following method to change my bevel box oil from underneath:

1. Engaged emergency brake.

2. Placed wheel chocks in front of both front wheels to keep car from moving http://www.amazon.com/Camco-44414-Wheel-...rds=wheel+chock

3. Raised car by the metal bar in front of the rear wheel using a 2 1/2 ton trolley jack purchased from a local auto parts store (photo attached).

4. Slid RhinoRamp under rear wheel for extra safety http://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11909-Rh...ords=rhino+ramp

5. Loosened Drain bolt at bottom rear of bevel box using 15/16" wrench and removed by hand http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-993030-16-In...=15%2F16+wrench

6. Removed orange fill cap by hand

7. Drained old gear oil into a plastic oil drain pan (Edit: I actually lowered the car down from the trolley jack for a bit to get the last bit of oil out with the M3W flat on the ground and then raised it again)

8. Replaced drain bolt by hand and tightened with 15/16" wrench.

9. Added Red Line 80/140 synthetic gear oil to fill hole
http://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Oil-58104...d+line+80%2F140 using a Plews Pump http://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrim...ywords=oil+pump all the way to the fill hole until some spilled out. Seemed like it took 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart.

10. Replaced the orange fill cap.

Not sure if this is the best or even the correct method, but it was fast and easy for me. The entire process took about 20 minutes on the first try.

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Last edited by 2013bluem3w; 06/05/15 04:05 AM.
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So the general view is fill to the orange ( breather) hole then?

Had my first service yesterday and they did change the BB oil and tighten the belt - however for some reason the BB is more noisy again - it had been getting better as Morgan said it would as the miles mounted.

I'm thinking i'll change it again to the Redline heavy duty stuff filled to the orange hole - apart from a bit of weepage as it gets hot are there any other downsides to in effect overfilling it?

Last edited by andymot; 06/05/15 06:01 AM.

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Originally Posted By andymot

I'm thinking i'll change it again to the Redline heavy duty stuff filled to the orange hole - apart from a bit of weepage as it gets hot are there any other downsides to in effect overfilling it?


This was the point of my original post as I cannot see any downside, and just wanted others views. The bevel box when filled to the orange cap is still only approximately half full.


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I use Liqui Moly 75 W 140 with some Liqui Moly oil additive with Molybdän-Sulfit MoS2 (whats the english name for this?)

Achim


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Any downsides to overfilling ? I have not come across any yet in 4K miles

Last edited by nippymog; 06/05/15 08:09 AM.
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Originally Posted By Waldemar
I use Liqui Moly 75 W 140 with some Liqui Moly oil additive with Molybdän-Sulfit MoS2 (whats the english name for this?)

Achim

Molybdenum Disulphide


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Good instructions but you missed:

4a. Remove the centre alloy panel before draining the oil.

It's removed in your picture but if you don't the drained oil just catches it and runs down into the footwell and takes ages to clean out, I know!


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Originally Posted By Waldemar
I use Liqui Moly 75 W 140 with some Liqui Moly oil additive with Molybdän-Sulfit MoS2 (whats the english name for this?)

Achim


I have toyed with adding one of the many variants of Molyslip to the oil I put in the bevel box, this stuff for instance:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Holts-GM6RA-Molyslip-Gearbox-Protection/dp/B004R95MCG

But I find as many negatives as pros on the internet for doing this , mainly it would be a waste of money - most arguments run along the lines of - as the oil manufacturer is developing their product , why would they not consider this in the first place ?
My Dad used to swear by this stuff , but that was in the sixties, and I hope oil products would have moved on from then.
I am still undecided.

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I tried some Molyslip in the bevel gearbox, mainly because I used it in my Moto Guzzi bevel box, it was required on them. It did not seem to make any noticeable difference and it was about the time of the "black goo" scare, so I decided to flush it out and stick with just gear oil. The Redline stuff does seem to make it all a bit quieter, or the box is wearing in more, or I am getting deafer, one of those.


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