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Aug 24th, 2023
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Joined: Apr 2009
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Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Apr 2009
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I had an aluminium radiator made for me by Pace Products in the early 1990s. Yes it helped but the Mulfab radiators are deeper and have a larger capacity so I'd go with that.
Just do an eyesight check to ensure that the oil cooler radiator isn't sitting when the bottom of the radiator needs to be.
Concerned that your radiator isn't mounted on bobbins. With the amount of flex in the chassis and body, the poor radiator needs it.
By the way, if you are inclined to remove the radiator supports and tidy them up, do not try straightening them if you notice that each side is not symmetrical to the opposite side. If you try and equal the bends, you will discover that the radiator will foul. Then you will have to undo all your lovely work and try and get it all to align again.
Oh the joys of a handbuilt car created using blacksmiths tolerances!
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 14,976 Likes: 1
Member of the Inner Circle
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Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Jan 2012
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Concerned that your radiator isn't mounted on bobbins. With the amount of flex in the chassis and body, the poor radiator needs it.
+1 - fit any exhaust bobbin....
Richard
1976 4/4 4 Seater
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 463
Learner Plates Off!
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Learner Plates Off!
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 463 |
The bobbins are same as exhaust bobbins on old type mini, quite easy to obtain from mini spares stockists. Or from E bay.
Same bobbins as used on the end of MGB exhaust, cheaper too
Dave
98 +8 Corsa Red
74 MGB Red
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Just Getting Started
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OP
Just Getting Started
Joined: Sep 2013
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Thanks for advice re: sourcing bobbins - I'm on to it. Cheers
1976 Plus 8.
2017 Bimota Tesi 3D Naked
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Joined: Apr 2009
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Has a lot to Say!
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Fiat 500 exhaust bobbins are ideal for use in isolating the oil cooler. They are smaller and more flexible that the Mini bobbins. Mount four on the top of the cooler and hang it down. It also means that there is some 'give' in the event you hit anything on the road that might otherwise damage the cooler and cause an oil leak with terminal consequences.
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 21,866 Likes: 167
Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
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Roadster Guru Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 21,866 Likes: 167 |
Not all V8 water pumps are the same quality, even 'back in the day'. I found that impellor size varied, as did the clearance to the water pump body. In the MGBV8 I never had overheating, but there was an un-statted oil cooler (in front of the radiator)!
There as one memorable journey back from Salisbury in August heat where it was so hot that there was a slight drop in oil pressure, and when we got home the windscreen washer water was so hot that I couldn't stand my finger in it!
DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 19
New to Talk Morgan
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New to Talk Morgan
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 19 |
I used to race a 1983 Plus 8 fitted with standard radiator and oil cooler. When racing, the temperature gauge went off the scale although never boiled over. However, when I fitted a Mulberry aluminium radiator, the temperature remained constant in the middle of the dial.. A worthwhile investment.
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 34
Just Getting Started
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OP
Just Getting Started
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 34 |
Richard is correct, the radiator is removed from underneath. Believe me Niels, I have done this on my 1976 Plus Eight car a number of times.
You don't need to remove the cowl, neither any 'cross members'. I trust that the 'cross member' that you refer is the inner-wing or valance tie-bar that supports the radiator. Be careful to site it back in it's original position otherwise you'll find your cowl shape will change and your bonnets won't fit as before.
To remove the radiator, jack up the front of the car and put on axle stands; loosen the four nuts and bolts holding the two radiator mounting plates to the front suspension crossframe so that they can be swung out of the way. You can also undo the bobbin nuts but leave everything suspended on the mountings.
You will need to remove the steering tie bar that links both front stub axles but probably not the draglink from the steering box. Loosen the draglink block on the steering tie bar and loosen the steering joint nuts at either end half a turn remembering that one side has a R/H thread, the other a L/H thread. On reassembly, you want it get this back in exactly the same position in order to avoid to have the car's toe-in adjusted.
Spin the steering tie-bar until the steering joints and tie-bar are free from each other and swing back out of the way of the radiator bottom outlet.
Now carefully lower the radiator remembering that it is a heavy piece of brass and copper and you don't want to drop and damage it. Better done with two people just in case.
The original Wood & Jefferies fan was never really up to the job and a Spad will be a significant improvement. As for mounting it: as close to the radiator as possible; consider soldering some four small mounting plates to the side of the radiator.
Finally, and some people may take issue with this, oil plays a bigger part in removing heat from the engine than the water does. Others are convinced that the water is what primarily cools an engine. Think about it: all that friction going on in the cylinder walls, crankshaft, etc, etc. All that hot oil gets simply dumped in the sump to be recirculated time after time around a hot engine. I'd recommend fitting an oil cooler (13 row possibly 16 row) using a sandwich plate between the oil pump and oil filter. The oil cooler can be mounted under the cowl box using some suitable brackets.
I trust that this helps.
David, Many thanks for the precise instructions.! Its this weekend's project!. I'll persevere with the present radiator (its winter here) and order an aluminium one from Mulberry at the end of the year. And at the same time will also refurbish the front end while everything is off. Also Thanks to everyone for all your good advice. Its made this project 1000 times easier.
1976 Plus 8.
2017 Bimota Tesi 3D Naked
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,036
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
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Niels, you're most welcome.
One final bit of advice, use thread protector such as ScotchClad (3M) 776 thread protector and adhesive to prevent chemical reaction between the timing cover and water pump bolts and aluminium castings. You will reduce the risk of a bolt shearing. It smells and looks like Evostik, a brown glutinous impact adhesive. An automotive or engineering supplier should be able to assist. It's possible that a domestic/builders product for sealing showers and suchlike will serve a similar purpose.
You could also replace the mild steel 1/4" and 5/16" UNC bolts and setscrews with stainless but beware stainless and aluminium still react where contact is present.
Have fun!
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 34
Just Getting Started
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OP
Just Getting Started
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 34 |
David
Thanks. Yes, being a long time sailor I was surprised to see so many dissimilar metals in contact with each other. I use TefGel on the boat. It pretty much prevents corrosion at the interface of dissimilar metals in a salty, wet marine environment. I still have a few tubes left.
The reason for changing out the water pump was it leaking due to severe corrosion in the area that the hoses connect to. I suspect that I have a big stray current problem.
Does anyone put anodes in their radiators? (It's common on marine engines to have a sacrificial zinc anode in the heat exchanger).. Just a thought.
1976 Plus 8.
2017 Bimota Tesi 3D Naked
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