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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,036
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,036 |
Hah! Another mariner! Just had to replace the front casting of our Volvo Penta 3 cylinder diesel. Corrosion due to suspected electrolytic action and the aluminium cover acting as a bloody expensive anode!
The only idea that I can offer is to check that engine has an earth strap. Other than that, is it possible that the engine has been run for a long time without anti-freeze or an anti-corrosion additive? I can understand that anti-freeze may not be necessary due to the higher ambient temperature. Is the lack of the radiator mounting bobbins an indication of unsympathetic maintenance?
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 12
New to Talk Morgan
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New to Talk Morgan
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 12 |
Hi this is also my first post though a keen and grateful observer of the other contributors. I have a 1985 +8 with the 3.5 and needed to replace a failing waterpump about 1 year ago. I installed a davies craig electric pump with the temp controller and have been very happy with the results even on 35deg days in Sydney traffic. It is a tight squeeze and I made up a dummy from foam to ensure it would go in before buying the kit. The radiator and fan are still the originals and no fan overide switch has been required. Happy to provide more details if you are interested Regards j
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 5,653 Likes: 4
Charter Member
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Charter Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 5,653 Likes: 4 |
Welcome to TM. It would be good to see some photographs of the pump intallation if you can.
Martin (Deano)
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 12
New to Talk Morgan
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New to Talk Morgan
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 12 |
Thanks for the welcome. I will try to get some photos this w/e and engage with the mysteries of posting them
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 34
Just Getting Started
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OP
Just Getting Started
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 34 |
mgr 8. Yes. I'm extremely interested in the Davies Craig electric water pump installation and specifically how you did it.
thanks
1976 Plus 8. 2017 Bimota Tesi 3D Naked
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 34
Just Getting Started
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OP
Just Getting Started
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 34 |
Hah! Another mariner! Just had to replace the front casting of our Volvo Penta 3 cylinder diesel. Corrosion due to suspected electrolytic action and the aluminium cover acting as a bloody expensive anode!
The only idea that I can offer is to check that engine has an earth strap. Other than that, is it possible that the engine has been run for a long time without anti-freeze or an anti-corrosion additive? I can understand that anti-freeze may not be necessary due to the higher ambient temperature. Is the lack of the radiator mounting bobbins an indication of unsympathetic maintenance? The car's almost 40 years old - so anything is possible. Although, it had had anti freeze in when I bought it 2 years ago and then promptly left to spend 2 years in the CAribbean. As far as missing bobbins? Who knows? As you well know, removing and replacing the water pump is a Rubiks Cube exercise and possible that some simply forgot to put them back. BTW,got the radiator out this morning.. how easy was that? I spent a couple of days puzzling it out. I would never have worked out how to do it without your advice. Thank You again!
1976 Plus 8. 2017 Bimota Tesi 3D Naked
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 12
New to Talk Morgan
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New to Talk Morgan
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 12 |
hi Niels550, I will get some photos on the w/e but in the meantime... I judged that the fan belt would foul the waterpump snout if it bypassed the impeller pulley so bought a pump from a wrecker and cut off the snout, removed the impeller and closed off the small drain hole and impeller shaft opening. the new pump to bottom rad hose is a shortened original and the hose from pump to the now gutted housing was found by sifting through the stock at Supercheap, from memory it is the bottom hose of a 5l Holden v8 cut to fit. Fitting required removing the alternator for access.The new fan belt is the smallest I could find that would fit between crankshaft pulley and alternator and it just clears the hose outlet from the pump. The temp controller is mounted on the timber behind the dash just forward of the drivers door. A bit fiddly all up but I am an ungifted amateur and so really quite a do-able job. I will search out the part number details I have and will put them with the photos. The other big + of the change is the pump runs on after the motor stops taking care of heat soak Regards
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 12
New to Talk Morgan
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New to Talk Morgan
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 12 |
Hi Niels550, I have posted some photos as 'Electric Water Pump' showing the pump and controller installed. The warning light was temporarily taped between dash and scuttle and is still there over a year later. The hose from EWP outlet to engine is bottom hose for Holden vl,vn,vp 5.0litre, Mackay part CH1556, OEM 92034984. I have left the alternator on its original mounts but short extensions to move it towards the midline would add more clearance to the lower part of the belt. Bear in mind of course that all Morgans are different and so the fitting may be different for you. Regards
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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 34
Just Getting Started
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OP
Just Getting Started
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 34 |
mgr8. Thanks. I just looked at the photos. Very helpful. A couple of questions: 1) What are you using for a temperature sensor and where is it located? 2) Is the pump hard mounted? Or as DC suggest to just have it "hanging" on the hose? 3) Which size pump/kit did you chose? 4) Any reason why you chose the alloy body pump vs the GRP body? Thanks Again for taking the time. niels ps.. And in case anyone else is curious - one of these kits is what mgr8 installed: http://daviescraig.com.au/category/ewp-kits-combos
Last edited by Niels550; 23/05/15 05:02 AM.
1976 Plus 8. 2017 Bimota Tesi 3D Naked
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 12
New to Talk Morgan
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New to Talk Morgan
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 12 |
all really important points which I should have covered in the description the temp sensor that comes with the the kit has a holder which is cut into the top radiator hose and as the thermostat is no longer necessary that position seems to work ok. Speaking of thermostats you may be interested in the hi-flow model discussed on the MOCA site if you have not already seen it
The pump is only secured by the hoses which are at about 90deg to each other and seem to locate it stably and I guess give it vibration protection
I Have the EWP 115 which at the time I think was the largest one and I see from their site they now also have a different controller. I have used the 80 model in another car but my recollection is it is actually deeper and so was not as good a fit between the cross member and crank pulley
The alloy was chosen because I thought I would need the screw in adaptors they sell but in fact they took up too much space and were not useful, the hoses fit directly to the pump. So the GRP unit should have been ok.The adaptors are now stored with all the other things I thought I might need!
The only issue which became apparent after fitting was that my car had the Strombergs with a water dependent choke and as the temp takes longer to rise from cold the fast idle needed adjusting. I suspect that will not be a problem with other carbs
I bought mine from an ebay seller and the prices from several suppliers was quite a bit less than the rrp from DC Regards
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