Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 M3W Clutch Problems

My 2012 M3W seems to be loosing its clutch at ca. 3000 miles??? I am careful not to "ride" the clutch. Was there a factory problem? If I accelerate to quickly the clutch seems to slip as the engine revs but the car does not accelerate,

Try to adjust the clutch,its easy. but i hope you didnt burn the clutch. Have it where the mog move 30% of the pedal or so,not too way up or not just a bit, at neutral you want to change gears smoothly, without feeling its hard to get into gear..when i got my car new,it was difficult to put into gear,so i adjusted it so it can push more on the clutch...

I thought I saw in the parts list that the M3W has a hydraulic throw-out bearing, not an external cylinder with pushrod.

If it's a hydraulic throw-out bearing, I don't think there is any adjustment to be made.

But I could be wrong.

Remove the cover above the pedals, you can adjust the clutch pedal...

Obvious, why didn't I think of that...

But that would only be for a "tight" pedal. If he has free play now in the pedal, he's got disk problems I would think.

Dan, if he has a disc problem he should try to adjust the pedal out and if the pedal goes down again I agree that it probably is a disc problem---Did he check the fluid?

I have made the adjustment as far as I can and the fluid levels are right. I seems I will have to change the plate, flywheel and disk, according to Morgan Spares. The parts cost $1500 and they claim a 30+ hour job is required. My car is two year old and thus out of warrenty even though less that 3000 miles.
Has anyone instructions on pulling the engine/clutch and-or transmission? I am far more used to my +4s than this trike.
Thanks for all your comments and any other thoughts you have.
Keep smiling!

Curt

The M3W uses a concentric throw-out bearing. I believe it is Mazda transmission, either out of a late model truck or one of their small sports cars. Ford (for obvious reasons uses the same design. The bleeder is on the top just under the oil tank. There is a black plastic bleeder that looks like a brake bleeder. If you the clutch is slipping you either have a burnt disk or the concentric throw out bearing is binding/blown. Could also be a binding clutch master cylinder behind the pedal, but that is rare.

I'd suggest looking at service bulletins for Mazda concentric slave cylinders.

I'd also remove the plate above the pedal cluster and watch the cylinder while someone else pushes the clutch. Look for abnormalities.

As far as removal, I've seen exploded diagrams of the car and it seems like servicing the clutch is similar to any other car. You likely have to remove the bolts between the drive adapter assembly and transmission, wrap some lift belts around the motor, and pull it forward.

Eek! I've forgotten what I paid for a new release carbon and a plate for the clutch on my two speeder, but could well be less that £30 for both!

Assuming no bolts are silly and hard to get undone, I've done a two speeder twin on my own in not much more than a morning. I'd not be surprised if two people could do it in less than an hour.

It does however look a lot more complicated taking the engine out of a five speeder.

If you have the time and energy it may well be worth trying to get MMC to subsidise this with a generous allowance. It is ridiculous that a clutch should go at such low miles and in such a short time.