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milligoon #291954 28/07/15 07:03 PM
Joined: May 2011
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Drive on the Wild Side
Part of the Furniture
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Drive on the Wild Side
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What you need is a modern Roadster with an A and B odometer, then you can use the B to keep check on the Grease regime. Time to upgrade. innocent


Adrian

Buggered Off, to a modern none leaky car, heart's still ticking
AJSki2fly #291961 28/07/15 07:12 PM
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Why not just grease every 1000 mile increment? Like, 5000, 6000, 7000 etc etc.


Paul
[At last, I have a car I can polish]
PaulJ #291970 28/07/15 07:30 PM
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Drive on the Wild Side
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Originally Posted By PaulJ
Why not just grease every 1000 mile increment? Like, 5000, 6000, 7000 etc etc.


Well I personally do not think every 1000 miles is sufficient, certainly not with standard pins. Also I have noticed the frequency is different depending on the thickness of the grease, hence why I am trying something new.


Adrian

Buggered Off, to a modern none leaky car, heart's still ticking
AJSki2fly #291978 28/07/15 08:05 PM
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Adrian - if you still have MMC steering bearings with rubber covers, they are very sticky. I wonder if your perception of stickiness after a certain point is the steering bearings. Once you grease, they will get a shot of grease but it will soon lose effect. When you do your pins get Mulfab bearings. Quite honestly my Roadster steering now is really (unbelieveably) light except at parking speeds.


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
DaveW #292005 28/07/15 10:05 PM
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Yes I also do not like the factory bearings and suspect that this is part of the issue, small balls with lots of thrust on them is never good, especially if not we'll lubricated.

I intend to replace with better springs, probably from Suplex with a higher lb rating and shorter bump stops carefully setup so that they are not pre-loaded, and Mulfab bearings, and hardened chrome pins and the better bushes. So with any luck I should get the best I can from a traditional type set up. So effectively combining what I learnt from my +8, and what others have done and advised. The end result should be a Morgan that handles well is reasonably comfortable and has predictable front suspension/damping. The shock absorbers are adjustable AVOs. IMHO for what I want it's about the best you can do. Rear end will be stabilised with a pan hard rod, preferably with one like I had on the +8 from Mulfab, as I now that design works well, and maybe another anti-tramp bar if I join the speedmog gang in the future.


Adrian

Buggered Off, to a modern none leaky car, heart's still ticking
AJSki2fly #292016 28/07/15 10:59 PM
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These "new" Roadsters seem more trouble than they are worth Adrian wink


Mark - No Longer driving
Archie the Old English Sheep Mog...........
2010 Roadster 3.0 V6 (S3) wink
milligoon #292035 29/07/15 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted By milligoon
These "new" Roadsters seem more trouble than they are worth Adrian wink


They all do that, it's a Morgan sir! laugh2


Adrian

Buggered Off, to a modern none leaky car, heart's still ticking
AJSki2fly #292242 29/07/15 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted By AJSki2fly
Yes I also do not like the factory bearings and suspect that this is part of the issue, small balls with lots of thrust on them is never good, especially if not we'll lubricated.


I've never really had that problem with mine innocent


Keith
2013 narrow bodied + 4 Ruby.
AJSki2fly #292281 29/07/15 08:11 PM
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The ones on Bumble were pretty much 'stuck'. They were even hard to turn off the car - it's the rubber cover which seems to be the problem, and you know how much I love rubber accessories.


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
oldchieft #292513 30/07/15 06:49 PM
Joined: Sep 2014
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Learner Plates Off!
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Morris K323 Blue Grease £9.95 + £4 postage on Ebay and only £3.02 + £4.74 postage (up to 3 tubes) TFM Farm and Country etc


John

2014 +4, Le Mans Blue / Magnolia
"Meg" the Mog
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