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Joined: Dec 2008
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DaveW Offline OP
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This weekend (September 2011) I've completed my third service.
Just over 2,000 miles since July 2010 which was the previous service. Here's an abridged summary.........

I decided to go for Mobil1 0-40 this time - sold in five litres, but this is "not quite enough" for a sumpful on a Roadster.


As mentioned above I went for the Jaguar filter this time. You can see from the next photo that it differs from the Ford EFL600. It's very slightly shorter, and the oilways are different. The non return diaphragm is also orangey.
The part number on the box is what to ask for although the earlier part number is still on the filter. Ford filters don't have a box.


I don't really have a fixed routine for servicing, it's how the mood takes me. This time I started with applying vaseline to the bonnet tapes and oiling the locks & hinges with 3 in 1 oil. Then I start the engine and run it for a few minutes to warm things up. This is because I don't want a high revving cold start with new oil, when it needs time to circulate. So if the engine is warm, it will start at a slower idle. If you take it on the road before dropping the oil, it dangerously hot, so I don't do it that way. The next photo shows that even with low mileage the oil is doing its job and has discoloured.


I removed the old filter, and filled the new one with clean oil, before refitting "hand tight". Filling the new filter avoids the engine doing it and significantly reduces the time spent running with no oil feed to the bearings.

At this point when I'd refilled the sump (after replacing the drain plug!) i remembered that five litres isn't enough, so had to turn out to Halfords on Saturday afternoon, fighting through armies of kids and people carriers.

Next was the gearbox. Those plugs are tight. Remove level plug first, then drain. This has been in for two years and again was murky, but not so murky as it looks here.


Here's another reminder about the oil specified for the Getrag box. It's a very specific requirement but I don't know why:


And here's another reminder about my solution to the problem of the level plug not aligning with the hole.........
I do have some new pedal rubbers, but I'm getting value for money from the old ones first!!!

Take the carpet out and lay some newspaper on the floor. You need a funnel and extension pipe, and it gets messy. There's little room inside the level hole, you can feel a gearwheel just inside. There isn't much room for pouring either.

Next the rear axle. A slow drainer.........
This oil has been in a year and looks clean, however there were some particles in suspension. I lowered the car to get the last of it to drain out. This oil looked much darker in the container.


While that was in progress, I checked the rear brakes. Remember that there have been a couple of stories of linings detaching from the brake shopes and jamming the brakes. Mine are still well glued in place. If you do this and you have wire wheels, don't touch the large slotted screws. The drums are held on with four conventional hex headed setscrews.
The insides were remarkably clean.


Some time ago I added a short piece of hose to provide additional protection between the fuel tank and the brake pipe.Here you can see the level of movement by the pale shadow on the tank. This is where the hose is rubbing against the wax rustproofing.


And finally a reminder of my funnel and tube arrangement for filling:


thumbs


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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Excellent pictures

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Dave

How do you keep the carpet tiles clean, no matter how careful I am oil when working on a car oil gets sort of everywhere without trying too much.

That's even when there is no oil involved in what I'm doing, don't start me on brake bleeding or changing calipers

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Have you changed the spark plugs Dave?
I keep worrying about mine............................
Nick

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DaveW Offline OP
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The camera lies Eddie! There are quite a few oil stains, but they don't really show. I use plenty of newspaper and a metal oven tray, so most of it stays under control.
Welcome to TM by the way. thumbs

Nick. The plugs are long life and as I recall are only due for replacement at 30k miles. The nearside bank is easy to get at - just take the air box off and there they are. The osffside are tricky, but according to the Mondeo Haynes manual it's fairly straightforward. I probably won't leave them for 30k miles, but I will be having a go when the fancy takes me - but not yet!!!!

I didn't mention this above, but my nearside rear wheel nut was not very tight. Eek!!!
In future I'll be checking more frequently than hitherto!!!

Just one more thing, you'll hear differing opinions about the best oil for the BTR LSD. My Roadster handbook quotes a semi-synthetic with friction modifier, and for the first three years, that's what I've used. About a year ago I made enquiries from an expert source who pointed me in the direction of the Morris fully synthetic LSD lubricant. Morgan use Morris Lubricants. So as with all oils, this is not my recommendation. It's my choice after considering all the facts. Ditto for the engine and gearbox oils. If you do your own oil changes you must draw your own conclusions. thumbs


DaveW
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Doh. I've done 31,000 so hurry up and do your plugs Dave so that I can do mine once I've seen your excellent pics!
Nick

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DaveW Offline OP
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Nick, your timing could be better.............. nono


DaveW
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come on, you know you want to check them......:-)
nick

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Originally Posted By DaveW

Nick. The plugs are long life and as I recall are only due for replacement at 30k miles.


My Owner's Manual, which covers 4/4, Plus 4 and Roadster states that spark plugs should be checked every 10000 miles and replaced at 60000 miles.


Ken
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DaveW Offline OP
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That's quite good news then. If the emissions ar MOT favourable, then the plugs are firing OK, and I wouldn't look at checking them without a good reason.


DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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