Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Workshop update pre Roadster Service.

Interesting info here. If the engine in the Jag is the 3 litre Ford Duratec dows this mean that the supercharged V6 in the F type is that engine too ie not a proper Jag engine but a Ford one?

Correct, my understanding is its a derivative of the Cylone but smaller and Turbo

That makes sense and its probably a better engine than one that Jag would make in small volume. But a Jag with a Ford engine? Badge snobbery maybe but thats one of the things that did for the X type.

My Jag dealer told me it was one they had designed and built themselves but then who relies on the technical knowledge at a dealership?

Today, 14th October I've had a morning in the garage and changed the oil & filter. I won't do a blow by blow account this time as I've recorded the process in detail before, but here are a couple of notes.

I always pre-fill the new filter so that it takes less time to build pressure. I also run the engine for a couple of minutes before draining the oil. This is simply to warm things over so that when I start it up with clean oil, it doesn't start from cold mode with high revs. Some people prefer to drain the old oil hot, but I prefer the warm oil method.



The old oil was surprisingly dark. It's been in there a year but not a great mileage, and no short trips. It wasn't quite as black as it looks here.
For the record - mileage is 17,406.
Oil is Mobil Super 3000 fully synthetic 5w-30. Sump bolt head is 15mm.



My second job this morning was to add spacers to the engine mountings to increase the ground clearance. I used two pieces of aluminium cut into a U shape which give a 4.55mm lift. I might add another 2.25mm spacer in time. It's a very simple job. Remove the lower nut - there's also a washer which may drop down. Then I screwed on an extended nut which I used to jack up the mounting using a scissor jack, then slotted in the spacer.





This is the spacer in place. The lower nut is 17mm. Sump clearance has increased from 79mm to 83.5mm (3&1/8" to 3&1/4"), not much but even a small increase is worthwhile.



That's all for today.

There goes your handling raising the centre of gravity

I know......but I'm very tempted to go another 2 mm now I know it's so easy.

All the Jag V6 motors are made in Bridgend.
Draw your own conclusions.
Wonder if they would fit in a Roadster.

Over the last couple of days I've got on with the Roadster service. A few pictures will follow later. I've increased the thickness of the engine mounting spacers to 6.25mm and the sump clearance is now three and a half inches, so this is a simple and elegant fix. If you match this with a Mulfab sump, you will get approximately 12mm increase.

I changed the gearbox oil, Getrags are supposed to take Esso LT71141. Both plugs are 17mm.
I replaced the rear dampers with the new AVO's, and greased the three nipples on the propshaft. Details of that to follow.

Finally, checked & cleaned the battery, took the drums off and checked & cleaned the linings & cylinders, and changed the axle oil - Lodexol XFS 80w/140 fully synthetic with a blob of extra friction modifier.

I also Danish Oiled all the visible wood in the cockpit.

Two days productive work!

Here's the front propshaft U/J. Note two nipples, the second is for the sliding yoke. On the S1 Roadster these are easy to get at, but on my Plus4 this joint is behind the floorboards, and I only found a nipple on the U/J. I need to look again at the sliding yoke. These nipples only need a sparing application - one stroke max, otherwise the seals on the U/J can be unseated, and grease will get flung out - this happens a bit anyway. See lower left on this photo.



And here's the rear U/J - easy access.



This is the offside rear brake. Still looking pretty good.



And my special funnel & tube for the rear axle.



Finally the battery compartment. Note the fused conditioner umbilical, and I've added a neoprene seal to stop road dirt blowing up.



The rear axle dropped about a litre and a half of really clean oil. Until this change, what came out was discoloured but this time it looked new.

The gearbox only drops about a litre, and what came out was discoloured. The capacity (from memory) is more than that so it must hang around somewhere inside. The Getrag is a difficult fill, because immediately inside the casing is a gearwheel, which makes it tricky to locate the tube and hold it steady. I lost my touch this time because a fair dollop landed on the newspaper below. Normally I'm quite tidy with few spills............

All that's left now is to lift the spare wheel and inspect inside the cavity, which I'll do on Saturday. Followed by a shakedown run to make sure that the engine mounting changes don't cause any knocks.

Dave - nice detail and useful - I was not aware of the potential for two grease nipples on the front prop uj - useful to know what to look for. Thanks for taking time to write and illustrate - really useful.