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Joined: Jan 2014
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JVS Offline OP
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If you have to replace the engine, starter or like me the remote clutch slave "Volvo" unit inside the Mazda Miata transmission, you will need to remove the whole engine/trans assembly. Making things worst is the removal of steering rack along with all the wiring and fluid plumbing is factory assembled around the engine complicating the job. There was no for-though about making it easy to remove the engine/transmission while leaving all the connection out of the way. It's a massive day of work just getting it ready to pull out.
I'm going to replace the 2012 compensator with the new rubberized unit since everything is apart.

Thank God I've got a couple of good friends that are both HD motorcycle and car mechanics or I'd be up sh_t's creek without a paddle.

If I didn't love this thing it would be out the door!


the replacement clutch slave unit - Volvo Part Number 8675052


JV Sclafani
Boca Raton, FL
'13 M3W Metallic Orange Pearl
128CI Steered by Empire - Riding on Ohlins
Joined: Nov 2007
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W
Talk Morgan Regular
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Aaargh - now I find I have a Volvo after all!!!

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While you're at it, check out the clutch plate for wear. As it will be all apart it is just too good an opportunity to replace!


What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
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JVS Offline OP
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Yes, all the parts are going to get a good look over!

When I went over to my local Mazda dealer's service department,
I asked about replacement parts for the transmission.
I was told that they don't stock any parts but just replace the whole darn transmission, swap it out!
No brain power in the building anymore!

Nobody fixes anything anymore, they just replace it?


JV Sclafani
Boca Raton, FL
'13 M3W Metallic Orange Pearl
128CI Steered by Empire - Riding on Ohlins
Joined: Apr 2013
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My dealer had no problem getting a clutch kit for the beastie. They are out there!


What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
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K
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K
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Hi Guys Im in a similar situation as Iv got a clutch failure Clutch will not replace ???? MMC don't want to know so Im going to take out the engine and sort it out my self I would be very great full for any tips and advice as how the best way to get the engine apart Any photos would be great for me and anybody else who is in the same situation

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Any notes, tips and photos on the clutch change and engine pull would be very welcome JVS. I have not been able to find any information or a procedure to follow for this and I am sure many of us will be doing it at sometime, sooner or later.


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JVS Offline OP
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Hello Morgan Self-Mechanics,

I will post picture and write up some notes.

I did watch the You Tube video on how they make the Morgan 3 Wheeler where they show how the entire engine, compensator and transmission being installed into the empty frame.

There is no way to remove the transmission from below while in the car.

We started by unbolting all of the parts connected to the motor, not very hard.
Next is all of the wiring and fluid hoses, this is where you get mad because all of this could have been plumbed around the engine parts, not thru and around the engine parts.
When going back into the frame we will make this change so it will be easier the next time.

Next was the steering rack! this was a pain.

Next was the interior to get to unbolt the drive shaft.

This is where we are at right now, everything unbolted and ready to pull out the entire engine unit as one.


My problem was that the internal clutch slave gone bad. we opened up the inspection hole (rubber cover) and could see that the original clutch slave was just moving a tiny bit and when we were bleeding the clutch system it was full of air bubbles coming from the bad seal in the clutch slave.

Learning to be a British Grease Lad!


more info and picture to come. Cheers



Removing the interior


JV Sclafani
Boca Raton, FL
'13 M3W Metallic Orange Pearl
128CI Steered by Empire - Riding on Ohlins
Joined: Oct 2011
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Gosh, so much easier with an old one.

1/ Drain coolant (if water cooled). Nice tap provided!
2/ Remove water pipes if fitted
3/ Disconnect fuel pipe
4/ Disconnect and remove oil pipe(s)
5/ Disconnect control cables from carburettor (easy way is to take carb apart).
6/ Remove control cable from magneto
7/ Remove shorting wire from magneto
8/ Remove exhausts
9/ Remove the four engine bolts (it won't fall, chassis will hold it)

At this point the engine is free and can be moved far enough forward to access many clutch bits but if there are two of you, enough man-power to remove engine pretty easily (if you are butch, you might do it on your own). Or pretty easy to remove with a hoist.

Set up near the bottom on this page on my website.

If everything is free (often is on a two or three speeder, they are very oily) you ought to be able to do a clutch job on your own in a morning. And if you are a racer, much less!


1930 Super Sports Aero 'The Elk'
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Well that's progress for you.


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