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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 39
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JMc Offline OP
Just Getting Started
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J
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Thanks for the information and photos.

I have had my head under the dash and was worried I wouldn't get out without help. I have stuck my iPhone in there to better see what I am looking for.

I haven't found the link between the knob and the rigid wire that operates the air flow yet.

I will try again tomorrow.

Great to see the All Blacks win against South Africa today.


Johnny Mac.

2011 Ivory plus 4


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Talk Morgan Addict
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Talk Morgan Addict
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The dash is very easy to remove, but first you could remove the black plastic panel below the dash - it has about 11 small philips self tappers if you drop that away (may need to unplug lighting pot ciggy lighter and unscrew lock nut from trip reset button, then it will give more access with the actual dash still in place (just three screws)


Mark - No Longer driving
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2010 Roadster 3.0 V6 (S3) wink
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It should be easy to by pass the heater under the bonnet with a length of pipe from the block outlet that goes to the heater to where it returns from the heater to the engine. I am not sure of the exact pipework on these engines.


.+8 Now gone for a 1800 4/4. Duratec in bright yellow.
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Or insert one of these.


Richard
1976 4/4 4 Seater
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J
JMc Offline OP
Just Getting Started
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Thanks again guys.
After removing the panel below the dash I have accessed the cam affair and while previously I had 2 clicks of range on the knob now I have 5 clicks. Yes 5 clicks 3 extra to the left of our previous cool position. I freed up the movement of the knob/cam thingy with a bit more grease.
Hope to go for a test drive tomorrow and feel the cool air.

All the info and photos and I presume I have a fix.


Johnny Mac.

2011 Ivory plus 4


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Anyone got a picture of the other end of the heater cable. (Heater box). I had the garage look at my control as over the winter it has got very very stiff. I can’t turn it one handed. Garage spent an age on it. (Labour cost OUCH) but they are still unhappy with it. Whilst they do not think it needs a new cable, but the core cable/wire needs withdrawing and lubing. This apparently means heater box out so many many hours Labour. I am looking at doing it myself, but can not find any diagrams etc to study. Note on the 2011 4/4 the cable only operates a flap. The matrix apparently is permanently on.


4/4 Ivory 4.1:1 axle, Mercedes A200 AMG
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Talk Morgan Addict
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R
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Ice Pack,
Methinks your garage are" taking the michael" - The wire goes from the dash control knob down to a arm at the LHside of the heater box the wire is inside a cable outer and if you can drip some light oildown the wire inside the outer, the wire will move much more easily -- also greasing the arm at the heater box end also works wonders as does a spray of WD 40 or spray grease on the control arm shaft into the heater box - as JMc says!!
It should not take a competent mechanic more that 10 - 20 Minutes

Cheers!


Robbie
2021 Plus Four -- Helga
211-WX-1433

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Thanks Robbie. I was in the footwell but can not see an arm or the cable. Is that where I should be looking ? The garage did say that the grease had gone hard on the heater box end, which they cleaned and renewed. Also sprayed WD 40 both ends.


4/4 Ivory 4.1:1 axle, Mercedes A200 AMG
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R
Talk Morgan Addict
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On my 2009 Plus4 it was on the passenger side of the heater box low down. I have a new Plus Four now so I haven’t got the Plus4 to check!


Robbie
2021 Plus Four -- Helga
211-WX-1433

"Fettlebodge"--A chief of the PaddyMogs
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Well I have looked everywhere & no sign of the heater cable box end. Even looked through several build records of others cars. A 2015 car shows the cable well. Unfortunately it is not in the same position on my 2011. Wish their was a diagram somewhere.


4/4 Ivory 4.1:1 axle, Mercedes A200 AMG
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