Talk Morgan Forums Community The Malvern Arms Trad Badge Bars

It is only a few days before the Centenary celebrations begin and I want to get this right. As a Morgan Novice I have been studying the many photos and am wondering which is the 'on form' method of presenting the badge bar on a car with front Bumper?

Ours is currently 'badge bar uppermost' but I have noticed some wear theirs 'bar down' with the badges just showing above the Bumper bar.

Any views please on what is the 'correct' way to wear it?

My '76 wears it's bar in the 'down' position.
Less airflow restriction to the rad that way.
I noticed Tinkerbelle's bar is in the 'high' position. As I have no badges for that one yet it won't really matter, but, before the first badge is fitted the bar will be inverted.

Cheers,

As Graham writes, air flow is an issue, I started with my badge bar in the higher position, but with 4 badges I had to switch to the lower position to keep the engine cool enough.

We've got 4 badges up, and hoping for a 5th so I better get at it and turn the bar over.

Thanks for all your help.

Dam & Blast.

I took the badge bar off today and three of the four badges. However, my NEW limited edition Centenary badge (with studs attached) scuppered my attempt. A nut on one side stripped the thread at the end of the stud and would not come off. Now it will not do up either so is loose with a rattly washer so I will need to cut the nut off eventually (on another day).

I did try the bar upside down while it was off and realised that 'CHAD' would have been re born if I could have turned it. (with only half of the Centenary & MSCC badges visible above the bumper).

The legs on my bar are obviously too long on this model (which my son bought for my Christmas pressy so has to stay).

Drilling extra holes is not an option due to a dogleg in the legs.

So for now it is back in its original position and there it will have to stay for now.

Frank
It can be modified with a bit of thought. Especially if the badge bar legs are stainless. It will need some metal surgery to part straighten the legs and probably shorten, and redrill the mounting holes. The nut can be persuaded off with a screwdriver underneath either side while turning. So far my Centenary badge studs are OK, but when they fail, I'll cut them off and file the rear smooth, then use two small allen headed setscrews spaced widely enough to clear the engraved numbers on the front. Where you use a generic badge bar fixing, you may need to file the holes wider to accommodate this. It has the makings of a pleasant weekend job.