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Joined: Dec 2008
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DaveW Offline OP
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I've been a user for a very long time without realising the true potential. I've picked up the odd fix here & there, sometimes in strange places - without understanding the true nature of the product. laugh2
For many years I've used closed cell neoprene as a (car) boot liner, as a (foot) shoe liner, and as a door protector in the garage. Closed cell means that it doesn't absorb water like a sponge, so is a barrier to water.

The Morgan has presented a whole new world of uses, and I rapidly ran out of stock. This lead me to research where to buy replacements on-line, and to explore the specifications, and therefore potential uses.

It's taken me a year to get this far, so here goes:
First comes standard density neoprene. It is available in various thicknesses, in 1mm increments. Standard spec is black but certain other colours may sometimes be available. This SD neoprene is soft and compressible, but tears easily. It's therefore suitable for gaskets, seals, and places where there is no chance of scuffing, pulling or stretching.
My preferred thickness is 3mm, and 4mm.

Next is firm grade (FG) Neoprene. This is slightly denser and with greater tear resistance. It's therefore more suitable for harder wearing applications like car boot liners and door protector in the garage. It would not be suitable for dogs paws though, as it would damage too easily. This can be used for wing protectors but must be glued to a backing former such as fibreglass. My preferred thickness is 4mm.

Next comes high density polyethylene foam (HDPF). This has a slight greyness, and has no visible aeration, unlike the previous specs which are visibly aerated. HDPF has high tear resistence, and will do most jobs well.

Beyond this is rubber which comes in various 'shore hardnesses'. Generally this falls between 40(soft & elastic) and 80('dead' & hard). Note that rubber sheet is heavy, and not really suitable for Morgans.
All the other specs are very light and are therefore ideal.

Now a few pictures:
This is 4mm HDPF which has been on my garage wall since the early 90's. Now I know what it is!!!!


Here is some rubber sheet - this is a heavy roll.


This shows 3mm, and 4mm standard density neoprene. The FG neoprene and HDPF don't look any different in photos, so I'll spare you a repeat photo!!!!!


As you know, I've used this stuff all over the Mog:
Not covered in a post, but I've lined the back of the over-riders with HDPF to keep the wet & dirt at bay.
Under the front wing I used 4mm standard density as a grommet round the steering column.


The cable tidy under the boonet was 3mm standard density......


The wing protectors were Firm Grade neoprene, as were the small protectors......


Under the spare wheel was Firm Grade, and to line my spare wheel security device and tool tray I used 3mm standard density.

This is my chosen supplier:


If you need advice, speak to Steve Nuttall, who has been a great help to me in sorting this out. Service and delivery are excellent. Prices at these thicknesses are around £25 - £30 for two square metres. Thicker sheets will be progressively more expensive.
I think that covers it - any questions, let me know.
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DaveW
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Dave
Another superb post of information. It has given me a plan on how to spend the winter and further, I now know what to do with my old wetsuits.

Dave

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Yes superbly informative post. Thanks Dave!

Regards,

Robert thumbs


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Dave

Was there a certain type of glue used with neoprene or will just about anything do

Dave

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DaveW Offline OP
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Dave
For the wing protectors I used heavy duty spray adhesive which I recall came from Agriemach (the insulation specialists). For smaller jobs I used heavy duty Bostick. It's worth applying a 'primer/sealer' first coat of glue & let it go off, because the neoprene can be waxy. Double sided tape doesn't work.
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DaveW
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Dave,
in my previous job I was Global Supply Chain Director for a niche rubber company called Linatex.

Linatex is a natural rubber made from LATZ ( ammonia stabilised latex) which is treated & blended gently so it has great resistance to break i.e. you can stretch it 800% before it rips.
It also has great bounce characteristics & is slippery when when wet. Make your own jokes up here!
So it is used in the mining industry to protect pipes & vessels.

It doesn't though withstand mineral oils so is a no no generally for cars. Though in WWII it was what made Spitfire fuel tanks leakproof as it was wrapped around them & in a leak it swelled & closed it off.

It smells also of rubber i.e. like elstic bands.

It allowed me on visiting the USA to tell the immigration guy / girl very straight faced that "I was big in Industrial Rubber".

In the UK look at a passing road sweepers & you will see red rubber blades pushing the dirt in toward black suction hoses. All Linatex.

I still have some Linatex & indeed a foamed version if you would like to move to the "red side".
John


JohnV6
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Originally Posted By lightsphere
Dave

Was there a certain type of glue used with neoprene or will just about anything do

Dave


Great Post Dave, with a very useful contact

Mouse Mat material is my current limit.

Just the glue question I was going to ask, Particularly the piece attached to the wall. coffee

Keep Up the good work. cheers


http://franks4x4-solograndetour.blogspot.co.uk/
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Gents,
be carefull most glues e.g. Bostik are basically neoprene dissolved in toluene or methyl ethyl ketone (MEK).
Use only in a very ventilated area to avoid cancer or passing out.

John


JohnV6
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All this talk of rubber..............my mind is drifting elsewhere....

exting


Phil Egginton
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DaveW Offline OP
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Frank

It's a long time ago, but I reckon the wall glue was Bostik.

This next photo is how a front over-rider looks with my dirt shield. It's a push fit.



DaveW
'05 Red Roadster S1
'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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