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BB's can run mightily hot.

If there was better access you could cook your dinner on it on the way home. Salmon with a little dill wrapped in foil would be my favourite.

A few TMers have fitted NACA ducts to the floor pan to direct cool air at the front of it with great success at keeping the temperatures down, especially in warmer climbs or on a long run, me included.

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Dab of oppo - any pics of where / how you positioned the NACA duct?


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Apologies found your previous ones..

http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/330507/Searchpage/1/Main/23440/Words/NACA+DUCT/Search/true/Re:_Modifications#Post330507


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The bevel box is a substatial chunk of metal that gets pretty hot .
I have measured mine at over 100 C
Its a check your pants are hitched up and bend at the knees job to pick it up.
So yes, it will take a long time too cool, slightly faster than the the engine block I would guess.

Last edited by nippymog; 14/05/16 09:06 AM.
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Originally Posted By KenShapiro
It is NOT normal to feel your bevel box back after dinner. Maybe a nice belch instead or some television.
laugh2


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Does anyone have a link to the procedure to align the drive belt? I think I know what I need to do, but want to make sure. Thanks in advance.

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Originally Posted By RedThree
Andrew
...
If you have the rear on stands with the tyre clear of the floor you can spin it backwards and forwards by hand while watching the belt. When the alignment is incorrect the belt will walk to one side of the sprocket or the other when you spin the wheel one way and the reverse when you spin it in the other direction. When it's correct the belt will stay in pretty much the same position on the sprocket.
Hope this helps.

Presumably it would be better to have a "rear wheel rolling road", rather than have the read wheel at its lowest travel. Maybe give the wheel some load. Probably need to run it via the engine to get it tuned. Some thoughts:
- Presumably the fine alignment of the rear wheel needs to be done each time it is removed eg for tyre replacement. In the absence of evidence to the contrary, presumably dealers and everyone else are just "winging it" for alignment, or assuming a high level of tolerance...
- when I get it the rear mudguard is going to need to be removed for fiddling with the alignment. And I'm guessing its mounting probably hasn't been designed for quick release smile
- I'm assuming fine-tuning the alignment could have a beneficial effect on drivetrain noise(s) (as well as running efficiency, albeit a small effect!). And probably longevity of the bevel box...

So my question: where can I go to get a professional alignment and set up of my rear wheel / belt?

[Reason for my question: from the factory it was set up so that it slipped on pulling away with a bit of wellie. Asked dealer to address but ended up adjusting it (/further) myself. Still slips occasionally, has some interesting noises, wondering if its optimal...]


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A lot of dealerships aren't hard wired for sorting what is essentially a motorcycle rear swinging arm or fork & rely on the stampings either side adjacent to the slot for the rear axle.

Setting the rear wheel to run in the same plane as the fronts is fine with just hand moving, and once in the same plane, will not matter whether at the bottom of the travel or the top.

The belt tension will, and this should be done with the car standing, so you'll need space underneath unless you have small arms..!

Professionally, you'd be well advised to find a company or engineer that is used to the breed. It's going to take them time to get their head around things if not, and that time you'll pay for.

It's not rocket science, just patience and method.

Don't over think it..


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I took mine down to the dealer to swap out the rear sprocket, again. We decided, then and there, that this would be a while you wait job and that I would help! I did not mind. The sprocket was swapped out and then we aligned the wheel. Once we had it where we thought it should be we lifted the car until the wheel was off the ground. He had his tools and I fired up the engine in neutral with no pressure on the accelerator. At that point when all hands were clear I gently nudged the gear shift into 4th but not all the way. I let the syncromesh do the work and the tire spun up and the final check was made. After we were both satisfied I shut it down. The car was then lowered and the final check was done for the belt tightness. There was virtually zero difference from hanging in the air to being on the ground.

This was before the Super Max was installed and the only difference is that now the belt is run much looser.


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Originally Posted By Michael H
I took mine down to the dealer to swap out the rear sprocket, again. We decided, then and there, that this would be a while you wait job and that I would help! I did not mind. The sprocket was swapped out and then we aligned the wheel. Once we had it where we thought it should be we lifted the car until the wheel was off the ground. He had his tools and I fired up the engine in neutral with no pressure on the accelerator. At that point when all hands were clear I gently nudged the gear shift into 4th but not all the way. I let the syncromesh do the work and the tire spun up and the final check was made. After we were both satisfied I shut it down. The car was then lowered and the final check was done for the belt tightness. There was virtually zero difference from hanging in the air to being on the ground

This was before the Super Max was installed and the only difference is that now the belt is run much looser.


I did the same way and checked the belt after a few miles on the road


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