My dealer uses a very typical four point lift. The two in front under the frame cross members and the two in the rear under the rear most cross piece. As for the rear wheel they let it drop. It only goes so far. When replacing the rear tire, sprocket, belt most of the work is done with the car low to the ground anyway.
It's a very straight forward way to deal with this car and it works well. The only time you have to jack the thing into the sky is when you wish to remove the entire drive train which is not a job for the faint of heart.
What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
The majority of private owners do not have the headroom for a two post in their garage and tend to use mid rise lifts that have two lifting platforms therefore a lifting beams would be need to bridge a lot of the more usual home lifts and in most bases both front and back.
Not to thread jack, but I have a kwik-lift. Which is basically two big 16' steel ramps. Obviously meant for four wheeled vehicles. I drive my vehicles up on to it all the time, but I'm curious as to ideas for getting a three wheeler on to it.
How much can the front end be lifted before the back end actually contacts the ground. My initial idea is to drive the front wheels up on the ramps to get some clearance under the car. Then slide one of those smaller plastic ramps under the rear tire and use that to lift the back end up. With that in place I could then put one of the cross braces in place and use some stands to actually support the rear of the vehicle.
Then I could just jack the entire back end of the ramps up to get them in position. Anyone see any obvious failure points there? Please don't flame me for the dirty garage. I promise it'll be tidy by the time I get the three wheeler.