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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 853
K
Ken A Offline OP
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K
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Originally Posted By 4/4sportsfun
Stick it in a saucepan of warming water with your jam thermometer and see when it switches - add a couple of flying leads first and connect a meter on continuity or batteries and a lamp if you don't have one.
Make sure the otter switch head is immersed and not in contact with the pan at all.

Probably somewhere in the range of 82 - 98C.


Now why didn't i think of that, thanks


Ken A.
Plus 4 2009 Centenary Metallic Red
Plus 8 1994 Dark Green (prev)
Honda CB100 The Big One


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Ken

My original +8 set up was secured by a thin wire through the radiator and the bottom tank (several wrappings) , as per Colin's suggestion. I didn't like it one bit, so was doubly pleased that when I changed to Mulfab alloy radiator, and there a proper boss into which the switch screws securely.

You car deserves an alloy radiator anyway, you know it makes sense.


Andy G
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M
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M
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Sounds like you have the same setup as the later model MGB, once the seal perishes the switch pops out, later on they added a stainless clip.
I think your going to be better off in the long run with the brazed in housing.


Dave
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cable tied mine in. When the rad was cold it could be pulled out by hand. scared


.+8 Now gone for a 1800 4/4. Duratec in bright yellow.
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http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/290395/Re:_Verify_temp,_and_gauge_cal#Post290395

About halfway down the threads, seems a common problem....


Malcolm T
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Ken A Offline OP
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Many thanks for all comments and suggestions. For the time being I am fitting a replacement rubber seal and lock wiring the thermostat to secure.


Ken A.
Plus 4 2009 Centenary Metallic Red
Plus 8 1994 Dark Green (prev)
Honda CB100 The Big One


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