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Joined: Dec 2011
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I have a hole. However; when I had the radiator out, I marked the pully at TDC and 10, 20, 30 BTDC. With a file and yellow paint.

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NelsonG Offline OP
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I will take out the plugs and find TDC with a piston stop. I suspect there is the hole there but it's just really hard to see. I will mark TDC and go from there.


- Nelson

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Unless You are a dentist, or somebody who can work in very close places, I suggest You remove the cowl & radiator. BTW: after years I converted to a small belt. Also a smaller alternator. A Denso used on Farm Machinery.

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NelsonG Offline OP
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Please tell me more about the small belt - I am sticking with the generator, but how does the smaller belt help the system? Does it increase belt wrap or decrease temperature or something?


- Nelson

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I am interested in the small belt/thin pulley conversion as well. From what I understand the benefits are several:
- Easier to find a thinner belt at auto parts stores
- Easier to install a thinner belt, especially if it needs to be done roadside
- Less strain on the water pump and generator/alternator

Is this something that can be accomplished with the engine in the car? I sort of assume the radiator and cowl have to come off, is that so?

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Originally Posted By NelsonG
Please tell me more about the small belt - I am sticking with the generator, but how does the smaller belt help the system? Does it increase belt wrap or decrease temperature or something?


If You are sticking with the generator I guess I would stick with the original belt. I am not sure but don't think one can source a narrow belt for that Lucas Generator. I converted to an alternator when My Lucas Generator quit. It was cheaper for Me to convert to an alternator than to rebuild the generator. At that time it just made economic sense.

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Originally Posted By racekarl
I am interested in the small belt/thin pulley conversion as well. From what I understand the benefits are several:
- Easier to find a thinner belt at auto parts stores
- Easier to install a thinner belt, especially if it needs to be done roadside
- Less strain on the water pump and generator/alternator

Is this something that can be accomplished with the engine in the car? I sort of assume the radiator and cowl have to come off, is that so?


Yes for these reasons plus My prior message. Morgan Spares makes a kit for doing this. I sourced a MGB crank pully, TR6 water pump pulley and used a Denso alternator with the smaller pulley. If you are using an electric fan on the radiator you need the extra amps of an alternator. A generator max's 20 amps. Most alternators at a minimum are 60 amps. An electric fan max's at about 20 amps or depending on size more. I also use a CD Ignition on My +4. This also requires amps depending on type. MSD 6A another 20 amps. Winterburn CD less amps.

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NelsonG Offline OP
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Got it. I've decided to keep the generator. The only electrical devices I'll be running in this car are the lights, heater fan, and of course the batter recharge/ignition system. I'm ok with the 20 amps, and will convert to LED lamps to decrease power requirement even further. I've also upgraded to a solid-state regulator (in a Lucas RB106 box), and that's made the thing a bit more efficient.

Still waiting on a 14 mm Piston stop to come in the mail, to find my TDC.


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8-10 sound about right. I started at 6 and advanced it from there.


'61 +4 DHC
'70 4/4
'80 4/4 4seater
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