If you look for my original post it will show what I did for a rebuild. I used Timken bearings and races for my rebuild. I recommend Lucas oil stabilizer for the box. You can run it at 100% but I thin it a little with 140W Lucas synthetic gear oil, 10%. After you install new bearings change out the oil in 1500 miles and check pinion preload without the seal installed. You want no less than 180 inch pounds with new bearings. If you backlash is no good you have to fabricate your own pinion shims.
Bewitched, good morning...
First off, where are you in MO? I live in St. Charles county in O'Fallon MO. I would really like to get with you some time.
On your inch pounds to turn the pinion, that's with the BB fully assembled correct? Not just the front pinion housing separated from the main housing?
Sounds like you're quite the mechanic, my kind of guy.
As Mark Evans has posted on the other bevel box thread MMC and Quaife are at last admitting there is a problem and are investigating the causes . I wouldn't buy a new or reconditioned one until the conclusions and hopefully solutions are available.
As Mark Evans has posted on the other bevel box thread MMC and Quaife are at last admitting there is a problem and are investigating the causes . I wouldn't buy a new or reconditioned one until the conclusions and hopefully solutions are available.
Sound advice , but difficult if your baby is screaming !
Preload is set and checked with the box together, oiled but not full of gear oil and NO pinion seal installed. You will not change pinion depth when you tighten the preload as the pinion gear is shimmed from the backside before assembly to set depth.
Last edited by Bwitched; 06/07/1601:34 AM.
"Know the black and white before you walk in the gray"
This cannot be easy working blind in an enclosed housing like this. At least on a GM or Dana style rearend you have the rear cover to take off and on a Ford style you have the complete third member out on the bench easy to work on.
+1