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Joined: Jan 2012
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Richard 1976 4/4 4 Seater
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Joined: Jul 2007
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Salty Sea Dog Member of the Inner Circle
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Now may be the time to convert to a Type 9, 5 speed box? 
Graham (G4FUJ)
Sold L44FOR 4/4 Giallo Fly '09 Gen2 MINI Cooper ragtop '90 LR 90 SW
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Did cross my mind but getting parts down-under is not easy ....
Richard 1976 4/4 4 Seater
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One of the conversion articles I found on line was on MOCA (or one of the State groups - Queensland?) websites. All info was about boxes etc. available in Oz... Worth a search 
Graham (G4FUJ)
Sold L44FOR 4/4 Giallo Fly '09 Gen2 MINI Cooper ragtop '90 LR 90 SW
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Joined: Jul 2007
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Graham (G4FUJ)
Sold L44FOR 4/4 Giallo Fly '09 Gen2 MINI Cooper ragtop '90 LR 90 SW
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Joined: Oct 2011
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2011
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I've no idea if the car was sold in Australia, but all type 9s are not identical. The one best suited to a crossflow Morgan (and really any sport car) is the one from a XR4i. The ratios of 1,2,3 and 4 are near enough the same as a rocket box (single and three rail 2000E box) and you get a 5th gear with, I think, about a further 15% reduction in revs.
The standard type 9 as fitted to cooking Sierras has a stupidly low first, whereas with the standard box (single rail 2000E) on a 1972 4/4, if you take the engine to 6000 (rev limit) in first, you get 4000 in second and thereafter a lower gap.
1930 Super Sports Aero 'The Elk'
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Joined: Apr 2013
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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I've been thinking about Martyn's response and think it might be best this time to take the engine out.
I am looking in to a hoist and engine stand (local motor-factor has 20% off now and reasonable priced kit).
So I assume after removing the bonnet:
1. Drain the coolant/oil and remove coolant hoses and heater valve cable 2. Remove oil gauge pipe 3. Remove coil leads/distributor lead from coil 4. Remove clutch and accelerator cables 5. Remove engine mounts (after hoist attached) 6. Remove fuel line to fuel pump 7. Remove earth cables 8. Remove exhaust manifold 9. Remove temp sender lead and disconnect starter and alternator leads
Now should I undo the bell housing and leave this in situ (at least at first) or remove the bell housing from the gear box?
This way I can be sure the minor leak is fixed properly, learn some more and perhaps clean up the engine a little whilst it's out.
Anything else I should (or shouldn't) be doing if I go down this route?
Oh what fun!
I guess then I could take the opportunity to change the gear box seals etc. and refit this on the new mount I've had in the tool box for a while. Richard, I found it was easier to remove the motor after first removing the front cowl and Radiator, it allowed the motor to fit in easier without damaging anything. It added an extra hour or so to the job, but worth it. I also removed the motor without the gear box/bellhousing, that was just 5 bolts and with the radiator removed, you can slide the motor of the spline easily. If you need any specialist tools, or someone to bounce problems of, happy to help. had the motor out of mine 4 times now, I am getting good at it.
Graeme: 2011 +4
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Graham: Food for thought. Martyn: Might just leave it as is it then  Graeme: Many thanks I may well be in touch! Garage now has a hoist and engine stand (all now assembled!). The fun starts tomorrow night 
Richard 1976 4/4 4 Seater
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Whatever you do - hope it all goes well! 
Graham (G4FUJ)
Sold L44FOR 4/4 Giallo Fly '09 Gen2 MINI Cooper ragtop '90 LR 90 SW
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Whatever you do - hope it all goes well!  Me too. I can only learn (and have some fun at the same time). A great escape from reality!
Richard 1976 4/4 4 Seater
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