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Salty Sea Dog
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The valve on mine leaked (this was sometime after disconnection) so check you aren't constantly putting hot oil into your KPs smile
That certainly would wash the grease out!


Graham (G4FUJ)

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Originally Posted By Hamwich
Originally Posted By Bish
replacing the oiler inlet with a grease nipple sounds a great way forward, I'm still young enough to crawl under so I wouldn't want anything remote. How difficult is it to do this?

mscc number 16633


I removed the one-shot oiling system about 10 years ago when I fitted my hard chrome king pins. I didn't bother to fit a top grease nipple, I couldn't see the point, it's the bottom grease nipple that is needed to get the grease where it's needed. Since then I have done 40k miles or so. The MOT tester has never mentioned wear, and when we stripped the suspension to fit the Suplex kit a couple of years ago it all seemed tickety-boo.

If you don't have hardchrome pins, then it's probably worth coming up with a top-oiling arrangement, but my experience with hardchromes suggests it's not necessary. YMMV of course.


As a practical matter I agree with Tim. The upper zerk is not needed. The grease distributes to the upper and lower bush by the action of the suspension. After greasing using the lower zerk, I put quite a lot of miles on My +8. After a lot of miles and several months (about 8 as I recall) without greasing I took the front suspension apart. Plenty of grease had migrated to the top bush as well as the bottom. I use "Moly-Graph" Lithium based Grease. I would think the Lucas "Tacky" grease would be a just fine. I do use grease seals top and bottom of the axle tube. SKF 9815. I install with the lip out. I am more interested in keeping the grit out than I am keeping the grease in. (also easy to install)

My +4 is still using those DEVOL bushes that the factory used at one time. I grease this system once a year at Spring Maintenance time. When installed properly with the clearance Bill Beck determined they have worked for Me. I did not use grease seals on this system. I wish I had. The bushing does not wear but the hard chrome pin did. It looks to me that grit got inbedded in the bush. I just turned the King Pins 180 degrees and still using the Devol Bushes. They have been in the +4 well over 10 years.

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Hi thanks for the advice / points of view. Think I'm going to forget the oiler and be dammed approach. So that naturally leads to the isolation of the oiler feed. Can any one point me towards the best way of doing this/ warn me of pit falls etc.

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Salty Sea Dog
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Tim Ayres at New Elms have some nice little brass plugs that fit into the oiler once the pipes to the suspension are disconnected.


Graham (G4FUJ)

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Originally Posted By Graham, G4FUJ
Tim Ayres at New Elms have some nice little brass plugs that fit into the oiler once the pipes to the suspension are disconnected.


As do Holden's here.


Richard
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Originally Posted By Bish
Hi thanks for the advice / points of view. Think I'm going to forget the oiler and be dammed approach. So that naturally leads to the isolation of the oiler feed. Can any one point me towards the best way of doing this/ warn me of pit falls etc.


The easy way is to leave Oiler system intact. Just do not use it and grease the Lower Stub Axle Zerk. I personally do not like crawling on My belly to grease the KP/Bush. So I mount a zerk on the top of the KP and remove the Oiler. I have drilled a grease galley to the area between the bushes. However: I understand that Peter Mulberry has made bushes that allow grease to flow. "Spanner Juggler" is the expert on this. BTW: With the use of "Induction Hardened Chrome KP's, drilling this hole is almost impossible.

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I have often thought if I could use oil instead of grease the Front Suspension would be more compliant. No matter that I have not figured the environmental impact of leaking oil all over the place. For a starter read this: http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/923/grease-oil

I wonder if chrome king pins are the best. When I installed the "Suplex Kit" I had a devil of a time setting the ride height to just kiss the rebound spring. Stiction! Was the term coined for this situation. I use a plastic bush called Vesconite. It is supposed to have a coefficient of Friction that is much less than bronze. Maybe in a pump. But how about a Sliding situation? Years ago I had a set of Mild Steel KP's pressure treated with Molly-Disulfate. It was on my first Morgan a 4/4 now long gone. I wonder??? A Canadian Morgan Owner has a Machinist Friend that hones the axle tube straight and then uses Loctite to hold the bushing. The bushing is not squeezed nor reamed while in the axle tube. I understand these bronze bushes or oilite bushes. So what does squeezing them a couple of thousands do the oilite attribute of these bronze bushes?

Something to ponder.

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Some Triumphs - Herald & Vitesse used diff oil in the lower trunnion. Not a kingpin, but a threaded end to the upright into a threaded brass? trunnion. They still suffered wear but didn't appear to leak oil, although the trunnion was right way up to hold the oil.


DaveW
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