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Joined: Oct 2015
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Originally Posted By Matty
Ken
Running a drive belt or chain too tight will cause premature wear on final drive bearings shafts. Lots on here are running belts slacker than set at the factory.
Time will tell


Of course, but you can't run a chain any more slack than a belt.


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Originally Posted By KenShapiro
Originally Posted By Matty
Ken
Running a drive belt or chain too tight will cause premature wear on final drive bearings shafts. Lots on here are running belts slacker than set at the factory.
Time will tell


Of course, but you can't run a chain any more slack than a belt.


Disagree!


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Originally Posted By Mark H
Why would you want to modify to a chain which has less life span and requires far more maintenance than the belt?
A motorcycle chain rarely lasts over 10000 miles is extremely dirty as it flings off any lubricant and unless is fully enclosed running in a bath or lubricated by a Scott oiler. Sorry but I don't get it 🤔


I agree in a perfect world, but not with the M3W.

If like other bikes and trikes that use belt final drives that make no noise nor wander off the side, or wear out the rear pulleys, there would be absolutely no need for a chain conversion.

BUT....... With the M3W there is a need for another option and the chain conversion is a fairly simple one. AND with the correct duty chain and O-ring chain, I personally think that the chain could last for a lot more than 10k miles.

Even if you did replace the chain every 10k miles, you can do it before there's much wear on the sprockets with just removing the master link and swapping it out. Not nearly as much work as replacing an endless belt.

Belt would be my drive of choice, but when faced with what everyone here is faced with, I would not hesitate to opt for the chain. With the amount of exhaust noise and being topless, the normal chain noise is probably not even heard.


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New pulleys don't wear. Noise is the BB, not the belt. Properly aligned, the belts don't "wander"... just don't see fixing something that isn't broken.


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Originally Posted By KenShapiro
New pulleys don't wear. Noise is the BB, not the belt. Properly aligned, the belts don't "wander"... just don't see fixing something that isn't broken.


+1

But I admire the craftmanship in the belt conversion.


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Originally Posted By KenShapiro
...Noise is the BB, not the belt. Properly aligned, the belts don't "wander"...

The debate is: when is a belt properly aligned, and how, with what tolerances (etc). A chain conversion may be an extreme response to a lack (perceived or otherwise) to that question - but it seems to work! I suspect the warranty is affected though smile


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Thanks guys for all your comments. I would make the following observations.
My machine was out of warranty when I did this mod.

Regardless of what everyone assumes about belt life, mine was clapped out after 7000 miles, teeth gone from rear sprocket, teeth worn out of shape on the belt and belt stretched

Total cost was just over £200 plus labour ( of love ) and this will be the case at every replacement due to wear and tear - so a cheaper future than the original.

The noise and jumping still exist and I am trying to get some help from Centa regarding the possibility of the problem lying with their coupling - watch this space.

Sorry if my input is a bit erratic but life and other work keep getting in the way!



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The chain was the most expensive part at about £120. But still less than a new belt, I believe.


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Originally Posted By Phil Bleazey

The noise and jumping still exist and I am trying to get some help from Centa regarding the possibility of the problem lying with their coupling - watch this space.

Sorry if my input is a bit erratic but life and other work keep getting in the way!


Good luck with the Centa discussions. Mine is still in warranty but still "jumps cogs". I've assumed it was the belt but really need to put a high speed camera there (without boot lid or liner) to check. If you find yours is the Centa I will suspect mine too!


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From what I've seen on the Centa pictures, the inner drive is very close, but not touching the outer driven housing.

So for it to "skip", you would need to have all four rubber rods totally chewed up. Then after that, you would be skipping almost all the time, or at least under very little power.

As far as the rear belts "skipping", there are guys with Harley full touring bikes two up doing wheelies. Lots of guys lift the front tire some once in awhile. The newer HD's, since '07, have been using just a 25mm wide belt and with the same pitch as the M3W, 14mm. The sprockets are from 30t to 32t drive and 66t to 68t driven. I've heard of guys breaking a belt, literally ripping it in half, but never seen or heard of guys jumping the teeth on the sprockets.

With the Gates Polychain, or similar belt tooth profile, they are very similar in performance as a chain, hence the Poly"chain" name.

I'm no expert, but there must be something else going on to cause the skipping sensation you're feeling.

I'd like to be proven wrong though.

Good luck with finding your skipping issue.


Dan
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