Okay okay and I missing something here? I removed the rear wheels,then using an impact driver and penetrative oil, tried to remove the set screws ( flat slotted ) one hour later...........nothing going to move. so I've cleaned and greased everything else and put the wheels back on. I've tried everything short of heat but working outside on the driveway isn't ideal. now with a left hand /palm covered in blood blisters from the driver I give up for the day dooh
Okay okay and I missing something here? I removed the rear wheels,then using an impact driver and penetrative oil, tried to remove the set screws ( flat slotted ) one hour later...........nothing going to move. so I've cleaned and greased everything else and put the wheels back on. I've tried everything short of heat but working outside on the driveway isn't ideal. now with a left hand /palm covered in blood blisters from the driver I give up for the day dooh
Those big slotted screws are for drum location they do not hold the drum on. There are 4 - 1/4" cap screws or counter sink bolts that hold the drum on.
In the early days of owning Woodstock (a 1972 4/4) I had the same bother. Think I did it in the end with an assistant putting their bodyweight on a bit of wood holding the screwdriver in place and then turning the screwdriver with a pipe wrench!
Once removed, I applied copper slip to the threads and never had the problem again.
Okay okay and I missing something here? I removed the rear wheels,then using an impact driver and penetrative oil, tried to remove the set screws ( flat slotted ) one hour later...........nothing going to move. so I've cleaned and greased everything else and put the wheels back on. I've tried everything short of heat but working outside on the driveway isn't ideal. now with a left hand /palm covered in blood blisters from the driver I give up for the day dooh
Those big slotted screws are for drum location they do not hold the drum on. There are 4 - 1/4" cap screws or counter sink bolts that hold the drum on.
Button Seattle
But they still have to come out ! You cannot remove the brake drum outer without removing these countersunk slotted screws
Okay okay and I missing something here? I removed the rear wheels,then using an impact driver and penetrative oil, tried to remove the set screws ( flat slotted ) one hour later...........nothing going to move. so I've cleaned and greased everything else and put the wheels back on. I've tried everything short of heat but working outside on the driveway isn't ideal. now with a left hand /palm covered in blood blisters from the driver I give up for the day dooh
Those big slotted screws are for drum location they do not hold the drum on. There are 4 - 1/4" cap screws or counter sink bolts that hold the drum on.
Button Seattle
But they still have to come out ! You cannot remove the brake drum outer without removing these countersunk slotted screws
Do Not remove the slotted screws!! The drum is not retained by them the reverse of the threads on the slotted screws is deliberately peened to make sure you cannot remove them. You will destroy the threads in the hub if you get them moving.
Remove the 4 hex 7/16 AF bolts then strike the drum hard on the wheel face with a copper or hide mallet, whilst pulling the drum lip back towards you. This will normally shock any corrosion loose and also jump the drum over any lip caused by the brake shoes. Repeat as necessary pulling on different parts of the circumference of the drum
and when it does come off and its time to refit , a smear of copper slip on the hub face will stop the drum sticking again. Mine had only been on a year and were already rusting as its untreated steel faces. Also don't overdo the tightening of the 1/4 bolts as it wouldn't be difficult to snap them off in the hub.
Okay okay and I missing something here? I removed the rear wheels,then using an impact driver and penetrative oil, tried to remove the set screws ( flat slotted ) one hour later...........nothing going to move. so I've cleaned and greased everything else and put the wheels back on. I've tried everything short of heat but working outside on the driveway isn't ideal. now with a left hand /palm covered in blood blisters from the driver I give up for the day dooh
Those big slotted screws are for drum location they do not hold the drum on. There are 4 - 1/4" cap screws or counter sink bolts that hold the drum on.
Button Seattle
But they still have to come out ! You cannot remove the brake drum outer without removing these countersunk slotted screws
Err you can on all the later cars (certainly post 1995) that I have worked on?
Do Not remove the slotted screws!! The drum is not retained by them the reverse of the threads on the slotted screws is deliberately peened to make sure you cannot remove them. You will destroy the threads in the hub if you get them moving.
Remove the 4 hex 7/16 AF bolts then strike the drum hard on the wheel face with a copper or hide mallet, whilst pulling the drum lip back towards you. This will normally shock any corrosion loose and also jump the drum over any lip caused by the brake shoes. Repeat as necessary pulling on different parts of the circumference of the drum.
Might be the case on a post 93 car, but NOT the case on a 1972 4/4 with steel wheels. As the OPs car is an 86, highly likely the ironmongery is the same, although I've not closely examined a wire wheel car of the same era.
There are definitely NOT four bolts holding the drum on, and if you want to take the axle apart to get at the brakes, you are in for a major and quite unnecessary battle.
OP post a photo of your car, with the wheel off showing the drum in place. There are a few confused folk here.
Last edited by Martyn Culling; 15/08/1603:36 PM. Reason: cos my spelling is rubbish
