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Leave the slotted head screws alone. It's not a big deal if you get them out but you don't have to.


DaveW
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Originally Posted By stevemag
Now I'm confused!
And it's my car
it's back in the lock up at the moment
it will have to wait until tomorrow confused2
the slotted countersunk screws are soaking in plus gas penetrative oil.
I didn't touch the 4 countersunk bolts, but they are likewise soaking,
job for tomorrow

So the car is on wires, not disc wheels then. My answers were based on disc wheels. The set up for the drum in the photo is quite different to a disc wheel set up.

And to put everything in one place, here is the photo again:


1930 Super Sports Aero 'The Elk'
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A
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Guess I've been doing it wrong all these years then Martyn!

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Originally Posted By Martyn Culling
Originally Posted By stevemag
Now I'm confused!
And it's my car
it's back in the lock up at the moment
it will have to wait until tomorrow confused2
the slotted countersunk screws are soaking in plus gas penetrative oil.
I didn't touch the 4 countersunk bolts, but they are likewise soaking,
job for tomorrow

So the car is on wires, not disc wheels then. My answers were based on disc wheels. The set up for the drum in the photo is quite different to a disc wheel set up.

And to put everything in one place, here is the photo again:


That's what my hub looks like , I'm on wires
read

Last edited by stevemag; 16/08/16 08:41 AM.

Magwa

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Arwyn

If you look at the photo, and the parts drawing I gave you can see the drums for wire wheels and discs are very different. I must admit, it surprised me that it is the case since it would be enough to use the same drums, with short location studs, and my thinking had been that this was the case. Not so, we live and learn.


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Too hot to work on the car today ( I'm not complaining! )so another go at it tomorrow.


Magwa

1950 Allis Chalmers B tractor
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