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Joined: Feb 2016
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Originally Posted By John07
I do not know for sure if this is what Morgan do but it could well be.
Cheers
John


they said it's for avoid excess pressure (sorry i dono the exact name in English), we ask them that not so long ago when we want to have two gas cap in one of the MOG we have rebuild

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Originally Posted By John07
The item in pic1057 is the fuel filter.

The item to the left in 1059 is the charcoal canister, to stop hydrocarbon fumes coming out of the vent.

The item to the right in 1059 is the roll over valve, this is to stop liquid fuel from venting when you roll the car.

The fuel pump is in the tank.

DaveW. Some modern cars do not return fuel to the tank. They control the fuel pressure by measuring the pressure at the fuel rail and the ECU uses this to control the pressure by varying the speed of the pump and so do not have a return line. I do not know for sure if this is what Morgan do but it could well be.
Cheers
John
John thanks, I did not know either of these components existed on any car never mind Morgans! Charcoal canister and rollover valve

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Hi Everyone,
To go back to one of my questions in an earlier post
1. To remove fuel tank sender I have to remove large black plastic ring and withdraw the sender out vertically where it will foul the ash cross member under the Spare wheel. Can this wooden member be removed easily?

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For the Techys/Engineers. The challenge goes on. Having repaired my fuel sender return connection with "common" sender parts from used Mondeo senders X 2 , I am still trying to understand why the return line has catastrophically blown out twice disabling the car and spraying fuel every where. Earlier post I mentioned back pressure on connection as a possible blow out cause if the return line was blocked in the sender. See photos of my two "used senders" I blew in the return line of both. On one free flow of air on the other totally blocked. If you look at JPeg 1065 you will see that where the return pipe goes into the cylinder there is a round "gizmo". In Jpeg 1066 there is no "gizmo" Needless to say its the one with the gizmo that prevents air flow. The gizmo is shown assembled and disassembled in Jpegs 1067 and 1068. My concern is if my sender has the gizmo fitted it could be causing the back pressure and the return connection to blow.
Questions:
1. Does anybody know what the Gizmo is and what does it do?
2. How should it work?
3. Most importantly does my 2006 Petrol Plus 4 have a sender with or without gizmo?
I will ask Morgan as well.

I know the immediate answer may be "just change the sender". See my post above on removal issues.

Plus I hate it when I have got a problem and I don't "understand" whats causing it.
The plot thickens.

Attached Images
IMG_1065.JPG (2.05 MB, 25 downloads)
IMG_1066.JPG (1.69 MB, 18 downloads)
IMG_1067.JPG (1.66 MB, 16 downloads)
IMG_1068.JPG (2.08 MB, 15 downloads)
Last edited by Eurosystem0; 21/08/16 02:30 PM.
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I wonder if it is a pressure regulator, which will keep the pressure at the injectors around 55psi - 60psi, and it has jammed closed? The solution may be to do away with it, or at least take the innards out and buy an after market regulator which can be set at whatever pressure is desired.

All fuel injection cars need a regulator as the high pressure fuel pump sends the fuel around the system at over 100psi which could damage the engine and will overfuel it.

If you go down the aftermarket route, don't get one of those cheap £30 ones, they tend to fail, pay at least £50 - £75.


Paul
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Originally Posted By PaulJ
I wonder if it a pressure regulator, which will keep the pressure at the injectors around 55psi - 60psi, and it has jammed closed? The solution may be to do away with it, or at least take the inards out and buy an after market regulator which can be set at whatever pressure is desired.

All fuel injection cars need a regulator as the high pressure fuel pump sends the fuel around the system at over 100psi which could damage the engine and will overfuel it.

If you go down the aftermarket route, don't get one of those cheap £30 ones, they tend to fail, pay at least £50 - £75.

Paul J. Thanks
Any other views out there?

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Hi Everyone,
To go back to one of my questions in an earlier post
1. To remove fuel tank sender I have to remove large black plastic ring on top of tank and withdraw the sender out vertically where it will foul the ash cross member under the Spare wheel. Can this wooden member be removed easily?

If not any tips on getting the sender out.

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Drop the tank? Undo the supporting board, support the tank and slide out the board, lower the tank...

Last edited by Richard - Aus; 22/08/16 11:42 AM.

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Originally Posted By Eurosystem0

Can this wooden member be removed easily?


The wooden battens are held in place by two woodscrews at either end. You need to use a socket ratchet wrench with a screwdriver bit to remove them. Whether or not it's easy depends on the state of the screw heads.


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Originally Posted By uvk33n
Originally Posted By Eurosystem0

Can this wooden member be removed easily?


The wooden battens are held in place by two woodscrews at either end. You need to use a socket ratchet wrench with a screwdriver bit to remove them. Whether or not it's easy depends on the state of the screw heads.


for remove the tank he need to remove this bar or he can remove it without touch the wood frame ? , in my eyes is not so good to touch the wood frame

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