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Originally Posted By Matty
I wonder how mazda damped out torgue spikes from the small truck that this gearbox was sourced from?


My understanding was that the 5 speed was sourced from the Miata '06 and later. Miata also used a 6 speed in these same years.

Any Mazda that uses these transmissions would be a 4-cyl inline configuration and perfect balance and equal power pulses would be the norm, the to odd firing out of balance S&S 2L.

Ever clutch uses a compression spring pack between the clutch hub and the friction plate. This helps to smooth out the trans a bit more as well.


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Originally Posted By Phil Bleazey

I have been looking in to blocks of polyurethane which can be cut to shape on the bandsaw thus allowing lots of experimentation; it is a shame the engine has to come out every time one wants to change the coupling elements - I guess I'll just have to get good at it!


Phil, I believe that even the Centa is assembled under a sort of preload on the rubber rods. The Harley dual ramp compensator is preloaded very heavily with Bellville washer packs.

If you use blocks cut to shape up front so they are slide in, my personal opinion would be that it will "rattle", not maybe in a sense that you can hear it, but physically and that could be detrimental to the motor as well as the trans.

Again this is just my thinking.

Without person trying, you never know. Nothing ventured nothing gained, so they say...

I know you'll keep moving forward and report back as you go.

I wish you lots of good luck.


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There is a lot of synergy going on in the back end. Everything has to be set just so. How I drive has the biggest influence as when using the first Harley compensator I had to really make sure that engine speed and shifting points really had to be dead on or you suffered the consequences. The Centa unit behaves much better. I'm working the accelerator to make things mesh on down shifting and, more importantly, up shifting.

I have never had it ratchet or slip a tooth and I drive the belt on the loose end. I am able to twist the belt 90 degrees.

I just changed out the rear tire and it has taken two weeks of fiddling, driving hard and whatnot for it to settle.

Right now, with the Super Max overlay, I get a mild chirping with torque spikes at around 3,300 rpm where the torque maxes out. It seems to be related to humidity more than anything else. When the air is reasonably dry it doesn't happen.

I wish we had the six speed. There's a lot of wasted space where you are either lugging it or over revving it to hit a certain speed. Big gaps.


What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
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Originally Posted By Michael H
I'm working the accelerator to make things mesh on down shifting and, more importantly, up shifting.


A tip from the Three Wheel Drive course I went on - try keeping the throttle still when you downshift and as the load comes off the revs rise enough to match to lower gear.

I was sceptical but it does work nicely for 5-4 and 4-3.

For 3-2 and 2-1 I normally give a blip just for the hell of it smile





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me like the blip too!


What's your mileage? Who cares. Is it practical? See #1. What happens when it rains? You get wet.
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First vehicle I've had ( bikes and cars galore for about 47 years) where I'm using 1st gear on corners.


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Originally Posted By nippymog
I have long maintained the drivetrain design is subject to both forward and backward backlash , so your thoughts make complete sense to me Phil. Cant explain why it only happens to the select few , but that in itself seems to be a Morgan attribute.

Seems odd. Against the backlash idea: when accelerating the drivetrain is not in any slack state. If the rear tyre slips... well its still under load when slipping. Could be the load reduction causes the Centa to wind back a little, and then quickly is reloaded as the reduced torque allows the tyre to drip again. But **** knows where the banging comes from. Clutch slip maybe?


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Sounds similar to my imaginings Paul1V. I am afraid we will have to wait for the proof of the pudding till I have eaten it!


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I do have the NVH fitted as I had to have a new chassis fitted after accident.
I have wondered if this is a factor.
My knock or clunk is only apparent ,post changing down on overrun in to second or first and letting clutch out with low rpm on the engine. It doesnt matter how gentle I am with the clutch. it doesnt appear on acceleration so its more like front lash than backlash( im joking but you get the idea)

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PS. Im not talking about lugging revs either

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